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Not currently on display at the V&A

Necklace

1845 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Although traditional jewellery was worn throughout Sweden, and has a distinct Swedish character, there are marked differences between the different provinces. Skåne province, in the extreme south of Sweden, has the richest tradition, and more jewellery was worn there than in any other district. Almost all the Swedish traditional jewellery at the V&A comes from Skåne.

The most popular necklace was a choker, made of several chains fastened at the front with a large decorative snap clasp. These clasps are often decorated with filigree and coloured pastes. Swedish traditional jewellers made lavish use of coloured glass. Red was the most popular colour, as everywhere in Europe, often mixed with green or blue. The small loop on the lower edge would have held a small pendent heart.

The clasp on this necklace has a full set of Swedish silver marks. It is marked with the Swedish 'cat's paw' standard mark, the town mark of Simrishamn, the date letter P4, for 1845, and the maker's mark AF. Anders Flinkenberg was a silversmith who specialised in traditional jewellery, who worked in Simrishamn from 1820 to 1866.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Silver set with red, green and blue pastes and decorated with filigree
Brief description
Silver choker necklace with elaborate filigree clasp set with coloured pastes, Skåne (Sweden), 1845.
Physical description
Choker consisting of four parallel panzer chains, of graduated lengths, with a large rectangular snap clasp at the front. The clasp is decorated with filigree tracery and set with ten faceted pear-shaped red pastes, with a border of smaller red, green and blue pastes round the two largest. There is a loop on the lower edge, which would have held a heart-shaped pendant.
Dimensions
  • Length: 31.4cm
  • Width: 13.0cm
  • Depth: 1.5cm
Marks and inscriptions
  • 'A F' in rectangular frame. (On back of clasp.)
    Translation
    Mark of Anders Reinhold Flinkenberg, of Simrishamn.
  • Two fish-like creatures swimming in opposite directions in an oval frame. (On back of clasp.)
    Translation
    Town mark of Simrishamn.
  • 'P4' in square frame. (On back of clasp)
    Translation
    Date letter for 1845.
  • Three crowns in a trefoil-shaped frame. (Twice on back of clasp.)
    Translation
    Standard mark for Swedish silver.
Subject depicted
Summary
Although traditional jewellery was worn throughout Sweden, and has a distinct Swedish character, there are marked differences between the different provinces. Skåne province, in the extreme south of Sweden, has the richest tradition, and more jewellery was worn there than in any other district. Almost all the Swedish traditional jewellery at the V&A comes from Skåne.

The most popular necklace was a choker, made of several chains fastened at the front with a large decorative snap clasp. These clasps are often decorated with filigree and coloured pastes. Swedish traditional jewellers made lavish use of coloured glass. Red was the most popular colour, as everywhere in Europe, often mixed with green or blue. The small loop on the lower edge would have held a small pendent heart.

The clasp on this necklace has a full set of Swedish silver marks. It is marked with the Swedish 'cat's paw' standard mark, the town mark of Simrishamn, the date letter P4, for 1845, and the maker's mark AF. Anders Flinkenberg was a silversmith who specialised in traditional jewellery, who worked in Simrishamn from 1820 to 1866.
Collection
Accession number
390-1886

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Record createdJune 24, 2009
Record URL
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