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Design

  • Place of origin:

    Lyon (designed and made)

  • Date:

    1762 (designed and made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Unknown

  • Materials and Techniques:

    gouache painted on ruled copper engraved paper

  • Museum number:

    T.402-1972

  • Gallery location:

    Prints & Drawings Study Room, level C, case 3H, shelf 18

This design is a preparatory technical drawing for a patterned silk. It belongs to a group commissioned by a silk manufacturing partnership active in Lyon, the most prestigious centre of the silk industry in Europe from the 1660s onwards. The partnership was called L. Galy, Gallien et cie from 1761 until the beginning of 1771 and it was one of Lyon's 400 manufacturing concerns mid-century. It kept good records, noting on the back of the designs the number of the design and minimal instructions on how it should be woven.

This design was for a patterned silk with a satin background, approximately 54 centimetres wide. It would have had this motif repeated across the width at least twice. In Lyon, manufacturing regulations dictated the widths in which such silks might be woven.

Physical description

Mise-en-carte or draft for a woven silk, painted in gouache on ruled paper, printed 8 en 9 on the front and with an handwritten inscription on the back. Pattern of ribbon meanders, flowers and stripes.

Place of Origin

Lyon (designed and made)

Date

1762 (designed and made)

Artist/maker

Unknown

Materials and Techniques

gouache painted on ruled copper engraved paper

Marks and inscriptions

L. Galy Gallien et cie.
14 mai 1762
No. 711 Taff[eta] en dorures et nuances 35 dix[ain]es à Répétition
L.Galy, Gallien et cie
14 May 1762
No. 711 Taffeta with metal thread and coloured silks 35 dezines in the repeatTh
The inscription indicates the owner of the design which was probably made by either an inhouse or freelance designer.

Dimensions

Height: 37.8 cm, Width: 55 cm

Object history note

Made for the firm of L.Galy, Gallien et cie., this and the other designs of this type were passed down through the partnership. They subsequently came into the hands of a designer called Robert Ruepp of 7 rue Bergère in Paris, who exhibited silks at the Great Exhibitions in Paris in 1900 and in 1925. They subsequently came into the ownership of Sir Frank Warner (of Warner and Co.) and then in 1972 into the collections of the V&A.

Descriptive line

for woven silk, 1762, French; Galy Gallien, ribbon meanders flowers stripes

Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)

Lesley Ellis Miller, 'Mysterious Manufacturers: Situating L. Galy, Gallien et Compe. in the Eighteenth-Century Lyons Silk Industry', Studies in the Decorative Arts, Vol. IX:2, Spring-summer 2002, p. 90
Natalie Rothstein, Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century, Thames and Hudson, 1990, p. 249

Production Note

This is one of a group of designs made for the silk manufacturing partnership L.Galy, Gallien et compe. between 1761 and 1769. Daniel Symiand (d. 1789) may have been their designer at the time.

Materials

Ruled paper; Gouache

Techniques

Copper engraving; Painting

Subjects depicted

Stripes; Ribbons; Flowers

Categories

Designs; Textiles

Production Type

Design

Collection

Prints, Drawings & Paintings Collection

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