Not currently on display at the V&A

Textile Fragment

ca. AD600-900 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Compound woven silk, samite. Possibly Egyptian or Byzantine, ca. AD600-900. The piece has been attached to cardboard. The background is of small cheques in brown and white. Circles (10mm diameter) lie evenly across the fabric and contain either a trefoil/club motif or a geometric motif of a central dot with four arrow heads pointing in towards the dot.

Samite (twill woven silk) was thought to originate from Persia under Sassanian rule (AD224-651). It was commonly decorated with pairs of animals and birds and set in pearled lotus roundels. It is often found in Western burials, within church possessions and along the Silk Road. Byzantine weaving workshops took on the samite technique to make it an essential weave of the period. It was a luxury textile of the Middle Ages brought to Europe when the Crusades opened up direct contact with the East. It was forbidden to the middle classes of France under the sumptuary rules c. 1470.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Woven silk
Brief description
Samite. Possibly Egyptian or Byzantine, ca. AD600-900. Small checked background and circular motifs.
Physical description
Compound woven silk, samite. The piece has been attached to cardboard. The background is of small cheques in brown and white. Circles (10mm diameter) lie evenly across the fabric and contain either a trefoil/club motif or a geometric motif of a central dot with four arrow heads pointing in towards the dot.

Dimensions
  • Height: 125mm
  • Width: 85mm
Credit line
Given by Sir C. Purdon Clarke, C.V.O., C.I.E.
Association
Summary
Compound woven silk, samite. Possibly Egyptian or Byzantine, ca. AD600-900. The piece has been attached to cardboard. The background is of small cheques in brown and white. Circles (10mm diameter) lie evenly across the fabric and contain either a trefoil/club motif or a geometric motif of a central dot with four arrow heads pointing in towards the dot.

Samite (twill woven silk) was thought to originate from Persia under Sassanian rule (AD224-651). It was commonly decorated with pairs of animals and birds and set in pearled lotus roundels. It is often found in Western burials, within church possessions and along the Silk Road. Byzantine weaving workshops took on the samite technique to make it an essential weave of the period. It was a luxury textile of the Middle Ages brought to Europe when the Crusades opened up direct contact with the East. It was forbidden to the middle classes of France under the sumptuary rules c. 1470.
Collection
Accession number
338-1887

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Record createdJune 24, 2009
Record URL
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