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Not currently on display at the V&A

Chemise

ca. 1909 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Underwear set consisting of a chemise, a pair of drawers and a camisole of embroidered cotton lawn and bobbin lace. Fine white cotton lawn with trimmings of re-embroidered bobbin lace trimmed with white satin ribbon bows.

The chemise is trimmed with bobbin lace embroidered with a whitework floral scroll and hem stitching. Mid-calf length and with a low square lace edged neck through which is threaded a drawstring and a triangular lace yoke. There are small whitework flowers embroidered at the centre front. The armholes are edged with lace and so is the frill at the hem. The garment has a one-piece 'princess line', a fastening at the centre back with small pearl buttons, and a slight pleat inserted at the waist level at the back.

The drawers are knee length, made from panels flaring from the waist and joined by hem-stitching. At the knee they are trimmed with a panel of bobbin lace insertion re-embroidered with an undulating floral trail in whitework and edged with a lace bordered frill. They are trimmed on the outside of the leg with a white satin ribbon bow. They fasten at the centre back with two linen-covered buttons. They are open at the crotch.

Camisole with a wide triangular neckline lace-edged with ribbon threaded through and below a wide pointed lace yoke embroidered with a whitework floral band. The armholes are edged with lace. The garment is shaped with hem-stitched darts and seams. Below the waist band, hemstitched filled, is a brief flaring band. It fastens with pearl buttons at the centre back.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 3 parts.

  • Chemise
  • Drawers
  • Camisole
Materials and techniques
Embroidered cotton lawn and bobbin lace, satin ribbon, linen
Brief description
Underwear set consisting of a chemise, a pair of drawers and a camisole of embroidered cotton lawn and bobbin lace, France, ca. 1909
Physical description
Underwear set consisting of a chemise, a pair of drawers and a camisole of embroidered cotton lawn and bobbin lace. Fine white cotton lawn with trimmings of re-embroidered bobbin lace trimmed with white satin ribbon bows.

The chemise is trimmed with bobbin lace embroidered with a whitework floral scroll and hem stitching. Mid-calf length and with a low square lace edged neck through which is threaded a drawstring and a triangular lace yoke. There are small whitework flowers embroidered at the centre front. The armholes are edged with lace and so is the frill at the hem. The garment has a one-piece 'princess line', a fastening at the centre back with small pearl buttons, and a slight pleat inserted at the waist level at the back.

The drawers are knee length, made from panels flaring from the waist and joined by hem-stitching. At the knee they are trimmed with a panel of bobbin lace insertion re-embroidered with an undulating floral trail in whitework and edged with a lace bordered frill. They are trimmed on the outside of the leg with a white satin ribbon bow. They fasten at the centre back with two linen-covered buttons. They are open at the crotch.

Camisole with a wide triangular neckline lace-edged with ribbon threaded through and below a wide pointed lace yoke embroidered with a whitework floral band. The armholes are edged with lace. The garment is shaped with hem-stitched darts and seams. Below the waist band, hemstitched filled, is a brief flaring band. It fastens with pearl buttons at the centre back.
Object history
This lingerie was made for and worn by Miss Emilie Grigsby (1876-1964) who was a wealthy independent American who came to England from New York. She established a salon which was frequented by writers and the military. She was considered to be one of the great international beauties, with extremely pale, almost transparent skin and golden hair. She was frequently the subject of articles in the New York Times during the early 20th century. Her clothes were purchased from couturiers in London, Paris, and New York, and demonstrated an elegantly avant-garde approach to style.
Collection
Accession number
T.198 to B-1967

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Record createdJune 24, 2009
Record URL
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