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Two-piece dress - Djerba
  • Djerba
    Crahay, Jules-François, born 1917 - died 1988
  • Enlarge image

Djerba

  • Object:

    Two-piece dress

  • Place of origin:

    Paris (made)

  • Date:

    1971 (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Crahay, Jules-François, born 1917 - died 1988 (designer)
    Paolozzi, Eduardo (Sir), born 1924 - died 2005 (designer)
    Lanvin (designed for)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Printed wool etamine, silk, plastic and chrome, lined with white silk crepoline

  • Credit Line:

    Given by Lanvin

  • Museum number:

    T.304 to B-1971

  • Gallery location:

    In Storage

The relationship between artists and fashion designers is often very close. In the late 1960s and early 1970s the Scottish-Italian artist Eduardo Paolozzi created a series of prints called 'Moonstrips Empire News'. These captured the attention of Jules-François Crahay, head designer for Lanvin from 1964 to 1984. He commissioned special fabrics based on Paolozzi's designs which were exclusive only to Lanvin's Spring-Summer collection of 1971. This two-piece dress, called 'Djerba', was presented as an informal evening dress to wear in the countryside. This was typical of high end design, where outfits were presented for wearing in very specific circumstances. However, the wearer had the option of wearing the blouse and skirt separately.

Paolozzi requested that Lanvin donate an example of this ensemble to the V&A in lieu of his royalties. Another Lanvin/Paolozzi ensemble, 'Malaga', was also donated (see T.303, A to D-1971). The 'Moonstrips Empire News' prints also inspired a series of Wedgwood ceramics, samples of which are held by the Ceramics Collection, (see CIRC.512-1972)

Physical description

Evening ensemble comprising of a lightweight printed wool etamine (a soft loosely woven fabric) blouse with bishop sleeves and a co-ordinating full-length pleated skirt with a geometric design in yellow, blue, orange, grey, and green on a cream ground. With a girdle belt of alternating rows of three large green plastic beads and cylindrical chrome beads with a blue-green silk tassel and hook fastening.

The blouse is loose cut and hip length with an elasticated length. It has a narrow band collar and long sleeves with the fullness conjoined by stitch pleats at the upper arm and a deep button cuff. The centre front fly with a white metal zip 3/4 length opening. Lined with white silk crepoline.

The skirt has the fullness confined by stitch pleats from the waist to the hip falling there in unpressed pleats to the ankle. It fastens at the centre back with a white metal zip and hooks and eyes. Unlined.

Place of Origin

Paris (made)

Date

1971 (made)

Artist/maker

Crahay, Jules-François, born 1917 - died 1988 (designer)
Paolozzi, Eduardo (Sir), born 1924 - died 2005 (designer)
Lanvin (designed for)

Materials and Techniques

Printed wool etamine, silk, plastic and chrome, lined with white silk crepoline

Dimensions

Circumference: 63 cm waist, skirt, Width: 380 mm, Circumference: 890 mm, Length: 1114 mm, Circumference: 800 mm, Circumference: 768 mm

Object history note

This ensemble, designed to be worn as an informal evening dress in the countryside, was featured in the Lanvin Spring-Summer collection of 1971, where it was described as: '"DJERBA": Robe de campagne en etamine de laine d'apres PAOLOZZI (Ducharne)' (Translation: '"Djerba": Dress for the country in wool etamine after Paolozzi (fabric by Ducharne)') The outfit is believed to have been shown in the French publication "L'Officiel" in Spring 1971 and possibly also "L'Art et la Mode".

The fabric was specially commissioned by Crahay after he had seen Paolozzi's print series "Moonstrips Empire news". It was exclusive to Lanvin, and was printed and made by the Italian company Bombyx and the French company Ducharne. Rather than accept royalties from the sales, Paolozzi requested that Lanvin donate the ensemble to the V&A in lieu of his royalties. Another Lanvin/Paolozzi ensemble was also donated (see T.303, A to D-1971)

Some Wedgwood ceramics were also produced bearing a design inspired by the same print series. They were given to the Department of Circulation at the same time as these outfits, and are now held by the Ceramics Collection, see CIRC.512, A to E-1972

Descriptive line

Evening ensemble 'Djerba' comprising of a printed wool etamine blouse and full-length pleated skirt, with plastic and chrome girdle belt, designed by Jules-François Crahay and Eduardo Paolozzi for Lanvin, Paris, 1971

Production Note

Spring-Summer 1971

Materials

Etamine; Satin; Vinyl; Chiffon

Techniques

Printing

Categories

Fashion; Women's clothes; Evening wear; Textiles; Accessories; Scotland

Production Type

Haute couture

Collection

Textiles and Fashion Collection

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