The relationship between artists and fashion designers is often very close. In the late 1960s and early 1970s the Scottish-Italian artist Eduardo Paolozzi created a series of prints called "Moonstrips Empire News". These captured the attention of Jules-François Crahay, head designer for Lanvin from 1964 to 1984. He commissioned special fabrics based on Paolozzi's designs which were exclusive only to Lanvin's Spring-Summer collection of 1971. This tailored two-piece, which Crahay called 'Malaga', was designed to be worn as day-wear. The sleeveless tunic and skirt are worn with a solid brown long-sleeved jumper, belt and scarf to focus attention on the vibrant pattern.
Paolozzi requested that Lanvin donate an example of this ensemble to the V&A in lieu of his royalties. Another Lanvin/Paolozzi ensemble, 'Djerba', was also donated (see T.304, A &B-1971). The 'Moonstrips Empire News' prints also inspired a series of Wedgwood ceramics, samples of which are held by the Ceramics Collection, (see CIRC.512-1972)
Physical description
Day ensemble comprising a jacket, skirt, jumper, belt and scarf made from 100% wool (Trade name Bombyx), printed with a multi-coloured design in shades of brown, beige, red and purple, and trimmed with shiny brown vinyl.
[Jacket] Sleeveless and collarless jacket, straight cut, hip length and with buttons down the front. Faced with vinyl round the neck, armholes and front fastenings, and lined with red satin. Applied with two square pockets above the hem.
[Skirt] Midi-length skirt lined with red satin. Straight cut and has two seams and two darts. It fastens to the left back with a beige metal zip and hooks and eyes.
[Jumper] Beige wool machine-knitted jumper in 'skinny rib' knit. Round neck and with long straight sleeves.
[Belt] Wide belt of brown vinyl. Mat lining. With a self covered rectangular two-prong buckle.
[Scarf] Square brown chiffon scarf.
Place of Origin
Paris, France (made)
Date
1971 (made)
Artist/maker
Crahay, Jules-François, born 1917 - died 1988 (designer)
Paolozzi, Eduardo (Sir), born 1924 - died 2005 (textile, designer)
Lanvin (designed for)
Materials and Techniques
Printed wool, vinyl, lined with satin, machine-knitted wool and chiffon
Marks and inscriptions
[Jacket] '40 112 at Vincent Madere Veste 100% laine'
[Skirt] '40 112 at Vincent Madere Jupe 100% laine'
[Jumper] 'Jean Briani Made in Italy. Paris'
Object history note
This ensemble was featured in the Lanvin Spring-Summer collection of 1971, where it was described as: '"MALAGA": Tailleur deux-pieces-sweater-sans manchez-bordé vinyl brilliant sur pull-over á manches longues. (laine imprimée d'apres PAOLOZZI - Exclusif BOMBYX). (rough translation: '"Malaga": Tailored two-piece, bright sleeveless tunic with vinyl over sweater with long sleeves. (Printed wool after Paolozzi, exclusive from Bombyx). The outfit was also featured in the French publication "Femmes D'Aujourd-Hui" of 28/4/1971
The fabric was specially commissioned by Crahay after he had seen Paolozzi's print series "Moonstrips Empire news". It was exclusive to Lanvin, and was printed and made by the Italian company Bombyx and the French company Ducharne. Rather than accept royalties from the sales, Paolozzi requested that Lanvin donate the ensemble to the V&A in lieu of his royalties. Another Lanvin/Paolozzi ensemble, "Djerba", was also donated (see T.304, A &B-1971)
Some Wedgwood ceramics were also produced bearing a design inspired by the same print series. They were given to the Department of Circulation at the same time as these outfits, and are now held by the Ceramics Collection, see CIRC.512, A to E-1972
Descriptive line
Day ensemble 'Malaga' comprising a woollen jacket, skirt and jumper, vinyl belt and chiffon scarf, designed by Jules-François Crahay and Eduardo Paolozzi for Lanvin, Paris, 1971
Production Note
Spring-Summer 1971
Materials
Wool; Vinyl; Satin; Chiffon
Techniques
Printing
Categories
Textiles; Fashion; Accessories; Day wear; Women's clothes
Production Type
Haute couture
Collection code
T&F
