Embroidery Design
ca. 1836-1854 (made)
Artist/Maker | |
Place of origin |
These designs (17) are for scalloped hems to garments decorated in stylised floral motifs. These designs were probably traced by Sarah Bland (1810-1905) about 1836-1854 from a commercially available pattern from a magazine such as The Lady's Newspaper.The scalloped designs which have pointed tips were known in the eighteenth century as 'Vandyke scollop', after costume in portraits by Anthony van Dyck (1599-1641). The fashion for this type of hem continued into the nineteenth century.
These designs are in an album which includes Bland's collection of her own botanically accurate designs, simplified patterns from accurate botanical observation, patterns traced from magazines, commercial, printed Berlin wool work patterns, gifts of patterns, including commercial ones from friends and relatives. In Bland's case, the gift of designs demonstrates connections between relatives of merchant and banking families and is of historical significance in bonding such families.
These designs are in an album which includes Bland's collection of her own botanically accurate designs, simplified patterns from accurate botanical observation, patterns traced from magazines, commercial, printed Berlin wool work patterns, gifts of patterns, including commercial ones from friends and relatives. In Bland's case, the gift of designs demonstrates connections between relatives of merchant and banking families and is of historical significance in bonding such families.
Object details
Categories | |
Object type | |
Materials and techniques | Pen and ink, pencil and watercolour on tracing paper |
Brief description | Designs (17) for stylised floral motifs and border patterns, ca. 1836-1854, by Sarah Bland (1810-1905) |
Physical description | Designs (17) in pencil, pen and brown and blue ink on tracing paper. These designs are for scalloped hems decorated in stylised floral motifs. |
Dimensions |
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Production type | Design |
Marks and inscriptions | 'J. Whatman / 1834' (Watermark) |
Credit line | Given by Mrs D. McGregor |
Object history | Historical significance: Within the study of embroidery, men tend to be recorded as professional embroiderers or pattern drawers, whereas women worked more ambiguously with designs for embroidery. Women's amateur as opposed to professional designs for embroidery raise problems because amateur work has tended to be regarded as less significant. Embroidery was a pastime but was also an economic activity. Upper middle class women's property was closely linked to their status within the family as daughters, wives and widows and only allowed semi-independence. This semi-independence was underpinned by legal, political, and social practices which subordinated them. Nevertheless, it was combined with recognition of their economic worth within the family enterprise. However, women were restricted as they often could not be openly involved in working for money. See L. Davidoff and C. Hall (Reference Tab). Bland could not be seen to be working but it is likely that she embroidered accessories for dress, penwipers, tablecloths, book covers, and cushions as gifts which were her contribution to the household, wider family, and friendship. The quality of her samplers and designs shows the value of such gifts in terms of relationships with family and friends. Material about the perceptions of a woman's role is pertinent to the discourse on women and therefore gender history. In Bland's case, the gift of designs demonstrates connections between relatives of merchant and banking families and is of historical significance in bonding between such families. |
Historical context | Sarah Bland (1810-1905) was listed as a 'gentlewoman' in the 1851 census return and is not recorded as having any occupation in the census returns for 1871 and 1901 which is consistent with her social status. |
Subjects depicted | |
Summary | These designs (17) are for scalloped hems to garments decorated in stylised floral motifs. These designs were probably traced by Sarah Bland (1810-1905) about 1836-1854 from a commercially available pattern from a magazine such as The Lady's Newspaper.The scalloped designs which have pointed tips were known in the eighteenth century as 'Vandyke scollop', after costume in portraits by Anthony van Dyck (1599-1641). The fashion for this type of hem continued into the nineteenth century. These designs are in an album which includes Bland's collection of her own botanically accurate designs, simplified patterns from accurate botanical observation, patterns traced from magazines, commercial, printed Berlin wool work patterns, gifts of patterns, including commercial ones from friends and relatives. In Bland's case, the gift of designs demonstrates connections between relatives of merchant and banking families and is of historical significance in bonding such families. |
Bibliographic reference | Davidoff, L and Hall, C. Family Fortunes, Men, Women of the English Middle Class 1780-1850. London: Routledge, 2002. 387 p. |
Collection | |
Accession number | E.372:248-1967 |
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Record created | June 18, 2009 |
Record URL |
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