Evening dress

Physical description

Turquoise silk georgette sleeveless evening dress with a straight cut chemise bodice with a low V-neckline. Heavily beaded with turquoise, black and clear glass beads on the bodice and down the streamers forming the skirt. The design comprising St Andrew's cross forms outlined with floral motifs. The apex of the crosses form the shoulder straps and end on the main skirt panels. Streamers with small floral designs hang between these and the skirt, and similarly beaded streamers hang under each armhole. These armhole streamers attach to the georgette slip with press studs, which is attached inside the dress at the top but is otherwise separate, and is also lined in matching chiffon. Slip of turquoise crêpe has been stitched into place at the top. It has shoulder straps, a loose straight top and gathered skirt.

Place of Origin

France (made)

Date

1925-1927 (designed)

Artist/maker

Callot (probably, designer)

Materials and Techniques

Silk georgette and glass beads, lined with chiffon

Object history note

This dress was worn by Miss Emilie Grigsby (1876-1964) who was a wealthy independent American who came to England from New York. She established a salon which was frequented by writers and the military. She was considered to be one of the great international beauties, with extremely pale, almost transparent skin and golden hair. She was frequently the subject of articles in the New York Times during the early 20th century. Her clothes were purchased from couturiers in London, Paris, and New York, and demonstrated an elegantly avant-garde approach to style.

At the time of acquisition Emilie Grigsby's friend, Miss Chisholm, stated that this dress and a few others were by Callot Soeurs, but this requires further research to confirm.

Descriptive line

Evening dress of silk georgette and crêpe slip, probably designed by Callot Soeurs, France, 1925-1927

Categories

Textiles; Fashion; Evening wear; Formal wear; Women's clothes

Collection code

T&F