Not currently on display at the V&A

Length of Silk

20th century (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This light yellow silk has subdued twill roundels woven along its length. The roundels are placed so that, when the material is cut and sewn to make a robe or jacket, the design is evenly spaced and sits well on the back and front of the finished garment. This type of roundel pattern lends itself to East Asian straight-seamed tailoring - not the only dressmaking tradition in that region but a very popular one.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Plain weave silk with self-patterned twill weave decoration
Brief description
Bolt of silk, yellow plain weave silk with self-patterned twill weave decoration, China, 20th century
Physical description
Bolt of yellow silk self-patterned with a design of dragon roundels. The roundels are in twill weave against a plain weave ground. At one end of the cloth the roundel design stops leaving a length of unpatterned plain weave silk.
There is a woven inscription at the loom end.
Dimensions
  • Width: 62.5cm
Marks and inscriptions
'Zhe Hang Linwanfeng yi ji nei zao xian' (Woven inscription)
Translation
Palace weaving, Linwanfeng Company, Hangzhou, Zhejiang
Gallery label
This piece is 62cm wide, nearly 20cm narrower than most of the other silk lengths, which may indicate a different place or period of manufacture. There is enough material to make a man's robe. The 'horsehoof' cuff sections are marked out at the end of the cloth.
Credit line
Addis Bequest
Object history
Registered File number 1965/3344.
Subject depicted
Summary
This light yellow silk has subdued twill roundels woven along its length. The roundels are placed so that, when the material is cut and sewn to make a robe or jacket, the design is evenly spaced and sits well on the back and front of the finished garment. This type of roundel pattern lends itself to East Asian straight-seamed tailoring - not the only dressmaking tradition in that region but a very popular one.
Bibliographic reference
Wilson, Verity. 'A Diplomat's Collection: The Chinese Textiles of Sir John Addis' in Arts of Asia, vol.33 no.2, 2003, pp.90-101 plate 14
Collection
Accession number
FE.110-1983

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Record createdFebruary 12, 2000
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