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Not currently on display at the V&A

Textile Length

1900-1920 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

There is no mistaking this green velvet as dress material. The outlines for all the sections of a sleeveless, side-fastening jacket can be traced in the velvet, with two choices of collar as well as a pocket, a spectacle case and a gourd-shaped purse. The opposition of cut and uncut velvet delineates the cutting line for the tailor, an easy way of dressmaking but one that may not have guaranteed a perfect fit.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Silk velvet with decoration in cut velvet on an uncut ground
Brief description
Length of velvet yardage for a robe, bright green silk velvet with decoration in cut velvet on an uncut ground, China, 1900-1920
Physical description
Bolt of bright green silk velvet with turquoise selvedges containing yardage for a women's sleeveless, side-fastening jacket. The line of decoration is formed by cut and uncut pile and includes enough velvet for two stand-up collars, a pocket, a spectacle case and a gourd shaped pouch. The pattern, which mostly consists of roundels, flower sprays and bats, is in cut velvet against an uncut ground.
There is a bright pink handwritten silk tag sewn to one end of the bolt.
Dimensions
  • Width: 67cm
  • Length: 350cm
Styles
Marks and inscriptions
'# 124 cha wen rong kan liao 1 jian' (Handwritten tag.)
Translation
One length of tea-coloured velvet waistcoat material.
Gallery label
This bolt of velvet contains a pattern for a woman's sleeveless side-fastening jacket. Its line of decoration is formed by cut and uncut pile and includes enough velvet for a neckband, a pocket, a spectacle case and a gourd-shaped purse. A bright pink cotton tag at one corner of the length describes the velvet as 'tea-coloured' - the green of unfermented Chinese tea which is drunk without milk or sugar..
Credit line
Addis Bequest
Object history
Registered File number 1965/3344.
Subjects depicted
Summary
There is no mistaking this green velvet as dress material. The outlines for all the sections of a sleeveless, side-fastening jacket can be traced in the velvet, with two choices of collar as well as a pocket, a spectacle case and a gourd-shaped purse. The opposition of cut and uncut velvet delineates the cutting line for the tailor, an easy way of dressmaking but one that may not have guaranteed a perfect fit.
Bibliographic references
  • Wilson, Verity. Chinese Textiles, London: V&A Publications, 2005, page 82, plate 91.
  • Wilson, Verity. 'A Diplomat's Collection: The Chinese Textiles of Sir John Addis' in Arts of Asia vol.33 no.2, 2003, 90-101, pp.90-101, plate 9
Collection
Accession number
FE.106-1983

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Record createdFebruary 12, 2000
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