Earring thumbnail 1
Not currently on display at the V&A

Earring

1800-1867 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Italian women have always loved lavish display. Even for the poorest, a rich show of jewellery was all important. Italian goldsmiths were expert at making a little material go a very long way. Many pieces seem too large to wear comfortably, but they are usually made of very thin gold, and are much lighter than they appear.

One of the most typical techniques in the south of Italy was the use of mixed colours of gold. The goldsmiths often used yellow gold filigree as a base, and attached flat shapes of red gold to its surface, as here. This technique was used for pendants and necklaces, as well as earrings, and is still in use today. This earring comes from the Abruzzi. Although the Abruzzi is in central Italy, it was formerly part of the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies, and the jewellery often has more in common with the south than with the rest of central and northern Italy.

It was bought as part of the Castellani collection of Italian Peasant Jewellery at the International Exhibition, Paris, 1867.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Yellow gold filigree with red gold facing
Brief description
Gold filigree earring, Abruzzi (Italy), 1800-1867.
Physical description
Earring, consisting of an elaborate filigree design of yellow gold wire, faced with cut-out shapes of red gold sheet, forming a stylised spray of flowers. There is a long hinged wire at the back, with a reinforcing strut in the centre. The original pendant is missing.
Dimensions
  • Length: 7.5cm
  • Width: 3.7cm
  • Depth: 2.0cm
Summary
Italian women have always loved lavish display. Even for the poorest, a rich show of jewellery was all important. Italian goldsmiths were expert at making a little material go a very long way. Many pieces seem too large to wear comfortably, but they are usually made of very thin gold, and are much lighter than they appear.

One of the most typical techniques in the south of Italy was the use of mixed colours of gold. The goldsmiths often used yellow gold filigree as a base, and attached flat shapes of red gold to its surface, as here. This technique was used for pendants and necklaces, as well as earrings, and is still in use today. This earring comes from the Abruzzi. Although the Abruzzi is in central Italy, it was formerly part of the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies, and the jewellery often has more in common with the south than with the rest of central and northern Italy.

It was bought as part of the Castellani collection of Italian Peasant Jewellery at the International Exhibition, Paris, 1867.
Bibliographic reference
'Italian Jewellery as worn by the Peasants of Italy', Arundel Society, London, 1868, Plate 9
Collection
Accession number
219-1868

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Record createdMay 1, 2009
Record URL
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