Hat thumbnail 1
Not currently on display at the V&A

Hat

1936 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

The couturier Charles James (1906-1978) began his career as a milliner in Chicago. He opened his own shop in 1926 under the label 'Charles Boucheron'. In 1928 he began designing dresses using the same 3-dimensional constructive approach found in millinery. James referred to himself as a 'sartorial structural architect'.

This hat is made of one piece of grosgrain silk fabric which is cut and folded in an origami style to create a peaked hat with a crown which flows into a high blunt brim. It came straight from the studio of Charles James into the V&A collections and retains a paper label stitched to the side, which reads PLEASE DO NOT UNPICK SEAMS OR STITCHES, presumably a warning to those working with fabrics in his studio.The hat is a great example of James's structural approach and his talent for creating volume out of flat materials.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Silk grosgrain
Physical description
Hat, black silk grosgrain with a pronounced diagonal rib, made as a high, pointed cap and then the high point flattened and folded sharply down in an origami effect
Dimensions
  • Front 'flap' width: 17.5cm (Note: External)
  • Ear to ear width: 27cm (Note: external)
  • Front to back length: 29.5cm (Note: external)
  • Ear to ear width: 20.5cm (Note: Inside crown)
  • Approx length: 25cm (Note: Inside crown)
Production typeHaute couture
Marks and inscriptions
PLEASE DO NOT UNPICK SEAMS OR STITCHES (Paper label attached to hat on one side in Charles James' writing)
Credit line
Given by the designer
Object history
The hat forms part of the Cecil Beaton Collection which was brought together by the late Sir Cecil Beaton. With great energy and determination Sir Cecil contacted the well-dressed elite of Europe and America to bring this lasting monument to the art of dress. The collection was exhibited in 1971, accompanied by a catalogue which detailed its enormous range. (catalogue no. 159 page 33).
Summary
The couturier Charles James (1906-1978) began his career as a milliner in Chicago. He opened his own shop in 1926 under the label 'Charles Boucheron'. In 1928 he began designing dresses using the same 3-dimensional constructive approach found in millinery. James referred to himself as a 'sartorial structural architect'.

This hat is made of one piece of grosgrain silk fabric which is cut and folded in an origami style to create a peaked hat with a crown which flows into a high blunt brim. It came straight from the studio of Charles James into the V&A collections and retains a paper label stitched to the side, which reads PLEASE DO NOT UNPICK SEAMS OR STITCHES, presumably a warning to those working with fabrics in his studio.The hat is a great example of James's structural approach and his talent for creating volume out of flat materials.
Collection
Accession number
T.901-1974

About this object record

Explore the Collections contains over a million catalogue records, and over half a million images. It is a working database that includes information compiled over the life of the museum. Some of our records may contain offensive and discriminatory language, or reflect outdated ideas, practice and analysis. We are committed to addressing these issues, and to review and update our records accordingly.

You can write to us to suggest improvements to the record.

Suggest feedback

Record createdApril 27, 2009
Record URL
Download as: JSON