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Design for embroidery - 'Part II: Fortgesetzter Kunst- und Fleiss-übender Nadel- auch Laden-Gewirck- Ergötzungen oder des neu-erfundenen Neh und Stick Buchs Anderer Theil'
  • 'Part II: Fortgesetzter Kunst- und Fleiss-übender Nadel- auch Laden-Gewirck- Ergötzungen oder des neu-erfundenen Neh und Stick Buchs Anderer Theil'
    Helm, Margaretha, born 1659 - died 1742
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'Part II: Fortgesetzter Kunst- und Fleiss-übender Nadel- auch Laden-Gewirck- Ergötzungen oder des neu-erfundenen Neh und Stick Buchs Anderer Theil'

  • Object:

    Design for embroidery

  • Place of origin:

    Nuremberg (published)

  • Date:

    ca. 1742 (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Helm, Margaretha, born 1659 - died 1742 (made)
    Weigel, Johann Christoph (the younger), born 1702 - died 1777 (published)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Engraving and etching on laid paper.

  • Museum number:

    E.1176-1933

  • Gallery location:

    Prints & Drawings Study Room, level E, case 92, shelf C, box 3A

This is a design of a flower jar probably for embroidered upholstery. It is from a pattern book for embroidery (about 1742) by Margaretha Helm (neé Mainberger) (born in 1659 in Deiningen, died in 1742 in Nuremberg, Germany). The information in the preface of the pattern book containing this design explains that it can be sewn in long or short stitch, or shading stitch, and also satin stitch encroaching on satin or taffeta. Long and short stitch may be worked in any direction and it is most commonly used in embroidery. Satin stitch encroaching is used for shading areas. It is a technique that consists of long and short stitches that are worked into the stitches in the previous rows thus giving the effect of blending tones of colour.

Helm worked in Nuremberg as an embroiderer who had her designs re-published by Christoph Weigel the Younger (1702-1777). The V&A has a series of pattern books for embroidery in three parts by Margaretha Helm of which this volume is Part II. It is entitled Fortgesetzter Kunst- und Fleiss-übender Nadel- auch Laden-Gewirck- Ergötzungen oder des neu-erfundenen Neh und Stick Buchs Anderer Theil or Further Delights of the Art and Industry of the practising Needle and Loom; or the newly invented Sewing and Embroidery Book Another part.

Physical description

Design for a flower jar.

Place of Origin

Nuremberg (published)

Date

ca. 1742 (made)

Artist/maker

Helm, Margaretha, born 1659 - died 1742 (made)
Weigel, Johann Christoph (the younger), born 1702 - died 1777 (published)

Materials and Techniques

Engraving and etching on laid paper.

Marks and inscriptions

'51'
Plate number in ink at bottom left.

Dimensions

Height: 18.5 cm Size of plate, Width: 29.1 cm Size of plate.

Descriptive line

Design probably for embroidered upholstery, about 1742 by Margaretha Helm (1659-1742)

Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)

Ludwig, H. Nürnberger naturgeschichtliche Maleria im 17. und 18. Jahrhundert. Mahrburg an der Lahn: Basilisken-Presse, 1998. pp.255 and 333.
Nürnberger Künstlerlexikon. München: Manfred H. Grieb, 2007.
Will, G.A. Supplement zu dem Nürnbergischen Gelehrten Lexicon oder Beschreibung derienigen Personen welche in den Buchstaben A bis Z vischer gänzlich ausgelassen worden sind. Nürnberg, 4, p.421.
Rücker, E. Maria Sibylla Merian, 1647-1717. Germanisches Nationalmuseum, Nürnberg, Ausstellung von 12 April bis 4 Juni, 1967, plate 10, flower vase from Teil des Blumenbuches
Victoria and Albert Museum, Department of Engraving, Illustration and Design & Department of Paintings, Accessions 1933, London: Printed under the Authority of the Board of Education 1934

Production Note

These printed designs by Helm are catalogued as Helmin, the feminine form of Helm, in the Micromedia online catalogue.

Attribution note: Eventually, two landscape panels round off the end together with two flower jars which present themselves to the curious eye of the artists [in] plates 48, 49, 50 and 51. The information in the preface for this design states that plates number 48, 49, 50 and 51 are to be sewn in long or short stitch, or embroidery stitch, or shading stitch, also satin stitch encroaching, needlepainting on satin.

The engravings of baskets and vases of flowers by Helm in The Delights (92.C.3) and Further Delights are similar to those by Maria Sibylla Merian (1647-1717).

Materials

Ink; Laid paper

Techniques

Etching (printing process); Copper engraving

Subjects depicted

Stitching; Jar; Flower; Embroidering

Categories

Designs; Embroidery; Fashion

Production Type

Design

Collection

Prints, Drawings & Paintings Collection

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