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Design for embroidery - 'Part II: Fortgesetzter Kunst- und Fleiss-übender Nadel- auch Laden-Gewirck- Ergötzungen oder des neu-erfundenen Neh und Stick Buchs Anderer Theil'
  • 'Part II: Fortgesetzter Kunst- und Fleiss-übender Nadel- auch Laden-Gewirck- Ergötzungen oder des neu-erfundenen Neh und Stick Buchs Anderer Theil'
    Helm, Margaretha, born 1659 - died 1742
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'Part II: Fortgesetzter Kunst- und Fleiss-übender Nadel- auch Laden-Gewirck- Ergötzungen oder des neu-erfundenen Neh und Stick Buchs Anderer Theil'

  • Object:

    Design for embroidery

  • Place of origin:

    Nuremberg (published)

  • Date:

    ca. 1742 (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Helm, Margaretha, born 1659 - died 1742 (made)
    Weigel, Johann Christoph (the younger), born 1702 - died 1777 (published)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Engraving and etching on laid paper.

  • Museum number:

    E.1167-1933

  • Gallery location:

    Prints & Drawings Study Room, level E, case 92, shelf C, box 3A

This design shows a flower jar intended for embroidery. It is from a pattern book for embroidery (about 1742) by Margaretha Helm (neé Mainberger) (born in 1659 in Deiningen, died in 1742 in Nuremberg, Germany). The information in the preface of the pattern book containing this design explains that it is for window and armchair sewing in long and short stitch, embroidery stitch, shading stitch, and satin stitch encroaching on taffeta or satin or for whatever one wants to use them. The reference to 'window and armchair sewing' may indicate that the embroidery is for upholstery. Long and short stitch may be worked in any direction and it is most commonly used in embroidery. Satin stitch encroaching is used for shading areas. It is a technique that consists of long and short stitches that are worked into the stitches in the previous rows thus giving the effect of blending tones of colour.

Helm worked in Nuremberg as an embroiderer, a teacher of embroidery, and a copperplate engraver who had her designs re-published by Christoph Weigel the Younger (1702-1777). The V&A has a series of pattern books for embroidery in three parts by Margaretha Helm of which this volume is Part II. It is entitled Fortgesetzter Kunst- und Fleiss-übender Nadel- auch Laden-Gewirck-Ergötzungen oder des neu-erfundenen Neh und Stick Buchs Anderer Theil or Further Delights of the Art and Industry of the practising Needle and Loom; or the newly invented Sewing and Embroidery Book Another part.

Physical description

Design for a flower jar.

Place of Origin

Nuremberg (published)

Date

ca. 1742 (made)

Artist/maker

Helm, Margaretha, born 1659 - died 1742 (made)
Weigel, Johann Christoph (the younger), born 1702 - died 1777 (published)

Materials and Techniques

Engraving and etching on laid paper.

Marks and inscriptions

'42'
Plate number in ink at bottom right.

Dimensions

Height: 38.5 cm Size of plate not exact due to fold, Width: 30 cm Size of plate

Descriptive line

Design for an embroidered flower jar, about 1742 by Margaretha Helm (1659-1742)

Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)

Ludwig, H. Nürnberger naturgeschichtliche Maleria im 17. und 18. Jahrhundert. Mahrburg an der Lahn: Basilisken-Presse, 1998. pp.255 and 333.
Nürnberger Künstlerlexikon. München: Manfred H. Grieb, 2007.
Will, G.A. Supplement zu dem Nürnbergischen Gelehrten Lexicon oder Beschreibung derienigen Personen welche in den Buchstaben A bis Z vischer gänzlich ausgelassen worden sind. Nürnberg, 4, p.421.
Rücker, E. Maria Sibylla Merian, 1647-1717. Germanisches Nationalmuseum, Nürnberg, Ausstellung von 12 April bis 4 Juni, 1967, plate 10, flower vase from Teil des Blumenbuches .
Victoria and Albert Museum, Department of Engraving, Illustration and Design & Department of Paintings, Accessions 1933, London: Printed under the Authority of the Board of Education 1934

Production Note

These printed designs by Helm are catalogued as Helmin, the feminine form of Helm, in the Micromedia online catalogue.

Attribution note: The information in the preface for this design states that it is part of four sheets, plate numbers 42, 43, 44, 45 which offer their two flower jars together with a fruit table/plate and a flower wreath for window and armchair sewing in long and short stitch, embroidery stitch, shading stitch, satin stitch encroaching and needlepainting. The reference to 'window and armchair sewing' may indicate that the embroidery is for upholstery.

The engravings of baskets and vases of flowers by Helm in The Delights (92.C.3) and Further Delights (92.C.3a) are similar to those by Maria Sibylla Merian (1647-1717).

Materials

Ink; Laid paper

Techniques

Etching (printing process); Copper engraving

Subjects depicted

Weavers; Flower; Stitching; Embroidering; Jars; Woman

Categories

Designs; Embroidery; Fashion

Production Type

Design

Collection

Prints, Drawings & Paintings Collection

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