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Design - 'Part II: Fortgesetzter Kunst- und Fleiss-übender Nadel- auch Laden-Gewirck- Ergötzungen oder des neu-erfundenen Neh und Stick Buchs Anderer Theil'; 'Further Delights of the Art and Industry of practising Needle and Loom; or newly invented Sewing and Embroidery book Another part'
  • 'Part II: Fortgesetzter Kunst- und Fleiss-übender Nadel- auch Laden-Gewirck- Ergötzungen oder des neu-erfundenen Neh und Stick Buchs Anderer Theil'
    Helm, Margaretha, born 1659 - died 1742
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'Part II: Fortgesetzter Kunst- und Fleiss-übender Nadel- auch Laden-Gewirck- Ergötzungen oder des neu-erfundenen Neh und Stick Buchs Anderer Theil'; 'Further Delights of the Art and Industry of practising Needle and Loom; or newly invented Sewing and Embroidery book Another part'

  • Object:

    Design

  • Date:

    ca. 1742 (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Helm, Margaretha, born 1659 - died 1742 (made)
    Helmin, Margaretha, born 1659 - died 1742 (Feminine of Helm., made)
    Christoph Weigel, born 1702 - died 1777 (published)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Engraving and etching on laid paper.

  • Museum number:

    E.1166-1933

  • Gallery location:

    Prints & Drawings Study Room, level F, case 92, shelf C, box 3A

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This is a design for the skirt and possibly part of the back of the bodice of a woman's jacket in the Saxony style. It is one of four designs for the jacket in a pattern book. It is from a pattern book for embroidery (about 1742) by Margaretha Helm (neé Mainberger) (born in 1659 in Deiningen, died in 1742 in Nuremberg, Germany). The technical information in the preface of the pattern book explains that these designs can be embroidered in long and short stitch, satin stitch encroaching or whitework on satin, taffeta, or linen. Long and short stitch may be worked in any direction and it is most commonly used in embroidery. Satin stitch encroaching is used for shading areas. It is a technique that consists of long and short stitches that are worked into the stitches in the previous rows thus giving the effect of blending tones of colour. Whitework is any embroidery in white thread on a white textile.

Helm worked in Nuremberg as an embroiderer, a teacher of embroidery, and a copperplate engraver who had her designs re-published by Christoph Weigel the Younger (1702-1777). The V&A has a series of pattern books for embroidery in three parts by Margaretha Helm of which this volume is Part II. It is entitled Fortgesetzter Kunst- und Fleiss-übender Nadel- auch Laden-Gewirck- Ergötzungen oder des neu-erfundenen Neh und Stick Buchs Anderer Theil or Further Delights of the Art and Industry of the practising Needle and Loom; or the newly invented Sewing and Embroidery Book Another part.

Physical description

Design in a T shape featuring stylised interlocking, swirling floral and leaf, including acanthus, motifs around a bird with outstretched wings at the centre of the page. The design has been pasted sideways in to the album.

Date

ca. 1742 (made)

Artist/maker

Helm, Margaretha, born 1659 - died 1742 (made)
Helmin, Margaretha, born 1659 - died 1742 (Feminine of Helm., made)
Christoph Weigel, born 1702 - died 1777 (published)

Materials and Techniques

Engraving and etching on laid paper.

Marks and inscriptions

'41'

Dimensions

Height: 37.5 cm Size of plate not exact due to fold and uneven bottom, Width: 29.9 cm Size of plate at widest point

Descriptive line

Design for the skirt and back of the bodice of a woman's jacket in the Saxony style, about 1742, by Margaretha Helm (1659-1742)

Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)

Ludwig, H. Nürnberger naturgeschichtliche Maleria im 17. und 18. Jahrhundert. Mahrburg an der Lahn: Basilisken-Presse, 1998. pp.255 and 333.
This was originally presented as the author's thesis (Berlin Technical University 1993).
Nürnberger Künstlerlexikon. München: Manfred H. Grieb, 2007.
Will, G.A. Supplement zu dem Nürnbergischen Gelehrten Lexicon oder Beschreibung derienigen Personen welche in den Buchstaben A bis Z vischer gänzlich ausgelassen worden sind. Nürnberg, 4, p.421.

Production Note

These printed designs by Helm are catalogued as Helmin, the feminine form of Helm, in the Micromedia online catalogue.

Attribution note: The information in the preface for this design states that it belongs to a Saxon camisol [waistcoat/ a sort of corset?] for women; these can be sewn on sateen [sic], taffeta, linen [Leinwand is actually canvas] and other cloth [Teuche, Tücher? not sure of the transcript] by the flower, image [convent stitch] or white foliage stitch [I think this is a series of possible stitches, but I am not sure of the exact translation]: To add the sleeve was considered an unncecessary, because this can be taken from the front part ['Vordertheil'= forepart the other part of the book maybe or just the beginning of this volume?]. It is also a pattern to the one sheet; in the same [is] a cuff to a sleeve of a man's nightgown [Rock= skirt, but also mantle, coat], this can be embroidered or sewn with/of gold.

Materials

Ink; Laid paper

Techniques

Etching (printing process); Copper engraving

Subjects depicted

Women's dress; Jacket; Embroidering; Weavers; Stitching; Cuff

Categories

Designs; Embroidery; Fashion; Pattern books

Production Type

Design

Collection code

PDP

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Qr_O225324
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