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Design for embroidery - 'Part II: Fortgesetzter Kunst- und Fleiss-übender Nadel- auch Laden-Gewirck- Ergötzungen oder des neu-erfundenen Neh und Stick Buchs Anderer Theil'
  • 'Part II: Fortgesetzter Kunst- und Fleiss-übender Nadel- auch Laden-Gewirck- Ergötzungen oder des neu-erfundenen Neh und Stick Buchs Anderer Theil'
    Helm, Margaretha, born 1659 - died 1742
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'Part II: Fortgesetzter Kunst- und Fleiss-übender Nadel- auch Laden-Gewirck- Ergötzungen oder des neu-erfundenen Neh und Stick Buchs Anderer Theil'

  • Object:

    Design for embroidery

  • Place of origin:

    Nuremberg (published)

  • Date:

    ca. 1742 (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Helm, Margaretha, born 1659 - died 1742 (made)
    Weigel, Johann Christoph (the younger), born 1702 - died 1777 (published)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Engraving and etching on laid paper.

  • Museum number:

    E.1163-1933

  • Gallery location:

    Prints & Drawings Study Room, level E, case 92, shelf C, box 3A

This design is for an embroidered side and skirt of a woman's jacket of the Saxony style. It is one of four designs for the jacket from a pattern book for embroidery (about 1742) by Margaretha Helm (neé Mainberger) (born in 1659 in Deiningen, died in 1742 in Nuremberg, Germany). The technical information in the preface of the pattern book explains that these designs can be embroidered in long and short stitch, satin stitch encroaching, or whitework on satin, taffeta or linen. Long and short stitch may be worked in any direction and it is most commonly used in embroidery. Satin stitch encroaching is used for shading areas. It is a technique that consists of long and short stitches that are worked into the stitches in the previous rows thus giving the effect of blending tones of colour. Whitework is any embroidery in white thread on a white textile.

Helm worked in Nuremberg as an embroiderer, a teacher of embroidery, and a copperplate engraver who had her designs re-published by Christoph Weigel the Younger (1702-1777). The V&A has a series of pattern books for embroidery in three parts by Margaretha Helm of which this volume is Part II. It is entitled Fortgesetzter Kunst- und Fleiss-übender Nadel- auch Laden-Gewirck-Ergötzungen oder des neu-erfundenen Neh und Stick Buchs Anderer Theil or Further Delights of the Art and Industry of the practising Needle and Loom; or the newly invented Sewing and Embroidery Book Another part.

Physical description

Design (one of four) for an embroidered side and skirt of a woman's jacket of the Saxony style. The design is in the shape of an upside down T. The design features stylised interlocking flowers, including a sunflower, and swirling leaves surrounding a bird with outstretched wings. The design has been printed on the paper vertically but has been pasted in to the album horizontally.

Place of Origin

Nuremberg (published)

Date

ca. 1742 (made)

Artist/maker

Helm, Margaretha, born 1659 - died 1742 (made)
Weigel, Johann Christoph (the younger), born 1702 - died 1777 (published)

Materials and Techniques

Engraving and etching on laid paper.

Marks and inscriptions

'38'
Plate number in ink at bottom right.

Dimensions

Height: 39.7 cm Size of plate not exact due to fold, Width: 29.7 cm Size of plate

Descriptive line

Design (one of four) for an embroidered side and skirt of a woman's jacket of the Saxony style, about 1742 by Margaretha Helm (1659-1742)

Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)

Ludwig, H. Nürnberger naturgeschichtliche Maleria im 17. und 18. Jahrhundert. Mahrburg an der Lahn: Basilisken-Presse, 1998. pp.255 and 333.
Nürnberger Künstlerlexikon. München: Manfred H. Grieb, 2007.
Will, G.A. Supplement zu dem Nürnbergischen Gelehrten Lexicon oder Beschreibung derienigen Personen welche in den Buchstaben A bis Z vischer gänzlich ausgelassen worden sind. Nürnberg, 4, p.421.
Victoria and Albert Museum, Department of Engraving, Illustration and Design & Department of Paintings, Accessions 1933, London: Printed under the Authority of the Board of Education 1934

Production Note

These printed designs by Helm are catalogued as Helmin, the feminine form of Helm, in the Micromedia online catalogue.

Attribution note: The technical information in the preface exaplins that these can be embroidered in long and short stitch, satin stitch encrouching or whitework on satin, taffeta or linen.

The information in the preface for this design states that it belongs to a Saxon jacket for women; these can be sewn on satin, taffeta, linen [Leinwand is actually canvas] and other cloth in long and short stitch [embroidery stitch, shading stitch, satin stitch encroaching, neeldepainting], image or white foliage stitch: To add the sleeve was considered as unnecessary, because this can be taken from the front part ['Vordertheil'= forepart the other part of the book maybe or just the beginning of this volume] [The design is E.1165-1933]. On the same sheet [E.1164-1933] is a pattern is a cuff to a sleeve of a man's nightgown , this can be embroidered or sewn with/in gold.

Materials

Ink; Laid paper

Techniques

Etching (printing process); Copper engraving

Subjects depicted

Stitching; Skirt; Embroidering; Jacket; Weavers; Woman

Categories

Designs; Embroidery; Fashion; Europeana Fashion Project

Production Type

Design

Collection

Prints, Drawings & Paintings Collection

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