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'Part II: Fortgesetzter Kunst- und Fleiss-übender Nadel- auch Laden-Gewirck- Ergötzungen oder des neu-erfundenen Neh und Stick Buchs Anderer Theil'

Embroidery Design
ca. 1742 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

These two designs are for stomachers featuring acanthus leaves and floral elements. A stomacher is a stiff panel, usually triangular in shape and often heavily decorated inserted in a open bodice to cover the corset in eighteenth-century dress. The information in the preface states that these stomachers can be made by frame loom weaving but can also be sewn by Cross and French (satin stitch padded). Cross stitch is made by creating two diagonal stitches that cross at the centre.

Helm worked in Nuremberg as an embroiderer, a teacher of embroidery, and a copperplate engraver who had these designs re-published by Christoph Weigel the Younger (1702-1777). The V&A has a series of pattern books for embroidery in three parts by Margaretha Helm of which this volume is Part II and it was re-published in about 1742. It is entitled Fortgesetzter Kunst- und Fleiss-übender Nadel- auch Laden-Gewirck-Ergötzungen oder des neu-erfundenen Neh und Stick Buchs Anderer Theil or Further Delights of the Art and Industry of the practising Needle and Loom; or the newly invented Sewing and Embroidery Book Another part.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Titles
  • 'Part II: Fortgesetzter Kunst- und Fleiss-übender Nadel- auch Laden-Gewirck- Ergötzungen oder des neu-erfundenen Neh und Stick Buchs Anderer Theil' (series title)
  • 'Further Delights of the Art and Industry of practising Needle and Loom; or newly invented Sewing and Embroidery book Another part'
Materials and techniques
Engraving and etching on graph paper
Brief description
Designs (2) for embroidered stomachers, about 1742 by Margaretha Helm (1659-1742)
Physical description
Designs (2) for stomachers. The designs feature acanthus leaves and floral elements. There is also a blue crayon/pencil design of a bunch of grapes near the right hand corner. Design is folded in to the album on graph paper.
Dimensions
  • Size of plate. not exact due to fold in paper. height: 38.5cm
  • Size of plate. not exact due to fold in paper. width: 27.8cm
Production typeDesign
Marks and inscriptions
'26' (Plate number in ink at bottom right.)
Production
These printed designs by Helm are catalogued as Helmin, the feminine form of Helm, in the Micromedia online catalogue.

Attribution note: The information in the preface for this design states that it shows two stomachers; these can be made by frame loom weaving [Laden-gewirk?] in Dress [?]-manner; [but] can also be sewn by the Cross and French stitch.

This could either be woven or embroidered in cross or French (padded satin) stitch.
Subjects depicted
Summary
These two designs are for stomachers featuring acanthus leaves and floral elements. A stomacher is a stiff panel, usually triangular in shape and often heavily decorated inserted in a open bodice to cover the corset in eighteenth-century dress. The information in the preface states that these stomachers can be made by frame loom weaving but can also be sewn by Cross and French (satin stitch padded). Cross stitch is made by creating two diagonal stitches that cross at the centre.

Helm worked in Nuremberg as an embroiderer, a teacher of embroidery, and a copperplate engraver who had these designs re-published by Christoph Weigel the Younger (1702-1777). The V&A has a series of pattern books for embroidery in three parts by Margaretha Helm of which this volume is Part II and it was re-published in about 1742. It is entitled Fortgesetzter Kunst- und Fleiss-übender Nadel- auch Laden-Gewirck-Ergötzungen oder des neu-erfundenen Neh und Stick Buchs Anderer Theil or Further Delights of the Art and Industry of the practising Needle and Loom; or the newly invented Sewing and Embroidery Book Another part.
Bibliographic references
  • Ludwig, H. Nürnberger naturgeschichtliche Maleria im 17. und 18. Jahrhundert. Mahrburg an der Lahn: Basilisken-Presse, 1998. pp.255 and 333.
  • Nürnberger Künstlerlexikon. München: Manfred H. Grieb, 2007.
  • Will, G.A. Supplement zu dem Nürnbergischen Gelehrten Lexicon oder Beschreibung derienigen Personen welche in den Buchstaben A bis Z vischer gänzlich ausgelassen worden sind. Nürnberg, 4, p.421.
  • Victoria and Albert Museum, Department of Engraving, Illustration and Design & Department of Paintings, Accessions 1933, London: Printed under the Authority of the Board of Education 1934
Collection
Accession number
E.1151-1933

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Record createdApril 17, 2009
Record URL
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