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Design for embroidery - 'Part II: Fortgesetzter Kunst- und Fleiss-übender Nadel- auch Laden-Gewirck- Ergötzungen oder des neu-erfundenen Neh und Stick Buchs Anderer Theil'
  • 'Part II: Fortgesetzter Kunst- und Fleiss-übender Nadel- auch Laden-Gewirck- Ergötzungen oder des neu-erfundenen Neh und Stick Buchs Anderer Theil'
    Helm, Margaretha, born 1659 - died 1742
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'Part II: Fortgesetzter Kunst- und Fleiss-übender Nadel- auch Laden-Gewirck- Ergötzungen oder des neu-erfundenen Neh und Stick Buchs Anderer Theil'

  • Object:

    Design for embroidery

  • Place of origin:

    Nuremberg (published)

  • Date:

    ca. 1742 (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Helm, Margaretha, born 1659 - died 1742 (made)
    Weigel, Johann Christoph (the younger), born 1702 - died 1777 (published)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Engraving and etching on graph paper

  • Museum number:

    E.1151-1933

  • Gallery location:

    Prints & Drawings Study Room, level E, case 92, shelf C, box 3A

These two designs are for stomachers featuring acanthus leaves and floral elements. A stomacher is a stiff panel, usually triangular in shape and often heavily decorated inserted in a open bodice to cover the corset in eighteenth-century dress. The information in the preface states that these stomachers can be made by frame loom weaving but can also be sewn by Cross and French (satin stitch padded). Cross stitch is made by creating two diagonal stitches that cross at the centre.

Helm worked in Nuremberg as an embroiderer, a teacher of embroidery, and a copperplate engraver who had these designs re-published by Christoph Weigel the Younger (1702-1777). The V&A has a series of pattern books for embroidery in three parts by Margaretha Helm of which this volume is Part II and it was re-published in about 1742. It is entitled Fortgesetzter Kunst- und Fleiss-übender Nadel- auch Laden-Gewirck-Ergötzungen oder des neu-erfundenen Neh und Stick Buchs Anderer Theil or Further Delights of the Art and Industry of the practising Needle and Loom; or the newly invented Sewing and Embroidery Book Another part.

Physical description

Designs (2) for stomachers. The designs feature acanthus leaves and floral elements. There is also a blue crayon/pencil design of a bunch of grapes near the right hand corner. Design is folded in to the album on graph paper.

Place of Origin

Nuremberg (published)

Date

ca. 1742 (made)

Artist/maker

Helm, Margaretha, born 1659 - died 1742 (made)
Weigel, Johann Christoph (the younger), born 1702 - died 1777 (published)

Materials and Techniques

Engraving and etching on graph paper

Marks and inscriptions

'26'
Plate number in ink at bottom right.

Dimensions

Height: 38.5 cm Size of plate. Not exact due to fold in paper., Width: 27.8 cm Size of plate. Not exact due to fold in paper.

Descriptive line

Designs (2) for embroidered stomachers, about 1742 by Margaretha Helm (1659-1742)

Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)

Ludwig, H. Nürnberger naturgeschichtliche Maleria im 17. und 18. Jahrhundert. Mahrburg an der Lahn: Basilisken-Presse, 1998. pp.255 and 333.
Nürnberger Künstlerlexikon. München: Manfred H. Grieb, 2007.
Will, G.A. Supplement zu dem Nürnbergischen Gelehrten Lexicon oder Beschreibung derienigen Personen welche in den Buchstaben A bis Z vischer gänzlich ausgelassen worden sind. Nürnberg, 4, p.421.
Victoria and Albert Museum, Department of Engraving, Illustration and Design & Department of Paintings, Accessions 1933, London: Printed under the Authority of the Board of Education 1934

Production Note

These printed designs by Helm are catalogued as Helmin, the feminine form of Helm, in the Micromedia online catalogue.

Attribution note: The information in the preface for this design states that it shows two stomachers; these can be made by frame loom weaving [Laden-gewirk?] in Dress [?]-manner; [but] can also be sewn by the Cross and French stitch.

This could either be woven or embroidered in cross or French (padded satin) stitch.

Materials

Ink; Crayon; Graph paper

Techniques

Etching (printing process); Copper engraving; Drawing (image-making)

Subjects depicted

Weavers; Grapes; Flowers; Stomachers; Stitching; Embroidering; Cross stitch; French stitch; Acanthus; Padded satin stitch

Categories

Designs; Embroidery; Fashion; Europeana Fashion Project

Production Type

Design

Collection

Prints, Drawings & Paintings Collection

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