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Design for embroidery - 'Part II: Fortgesetzter Kunst- und Fleiss-übender Nadel- auch Laden-Gewirck- Ergötzungen oder des neu-erfundenen Neh und Stick Buchs Anderer Theil'
  • 'Part II: Fortgesetzter Kunst- und Fleiss-übender Nadel- auch Laden-Gewirck- Ergötzungen oder des neu-erfundenen Neh und Stick Buchs Anderer Theil'
    Helm, Margaretha, born 1659 - died 1742
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'Part II: Fortgesetzter Kunst- und Fleiss-übender Nadel- auch Laden-Gewirck- Ergötzungen oder des neu-erfundenen Neh und Stick Buchs Anderer Theil'

  • Object:

    Design for embroidery

  • Place of origin:

    Nuremberg (published)

  • Date:

    ca. 1742 (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Helm, Margaretha, born 1659 - died 1742 (made)
    Weigel, Johann Christoph (the younger), born 1702 - died 1777 (published)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Engraving and etching on graph paper.

  • Museum number:

    E.1141-1933

  • Gallery location:

    Prints & Drawings Study Room, level E, case 92, shelf C, box 3A

This is a design featuring four motifs in the centre of hexagons, two sides of which are formed by twisted columns. It is from a pattern book for embroidery (about 1742) by Margaretha Helm (neé Mainberger) (born in 1659 in Deiningen, died in 1742 in Nuremberg, Germany). It was designed for knitting, weaving, or embroidery in cross and French stitch (satin stitch padded). Cross stitch is made by creating two diagonal stitches that cross at the centre.

Helm worked in Nuremberg as an embroiderer, a teacher of embroidery, and a copperplate engraver who had these designs re-published by Christoph Weigel the Younger (1702-1777). The V&A has a series of pattern books for embroidery in three parts by Margaretha Helm of which this volume is Part II. It is entitled Fortgesetzter Kunst- und Fleiss-übender Nadel- auch Laden-Gewirck-Ergötzungen oder des neu-erfundenen Neh und Stick Buchs Anderer Theil or Further Delights of the Art and Industry of the practising Needle and Loom; or the newly invented Sewing and Embroidery Book Another part.

Physical description

Design for knitting, weaving and embroidery featuring 4 stylised symmetrical motifs in the centre of hexagons, two sides of which are formed by twisted columns on graph paper.

Place of Origin

Nuremberg (published)

Date

ca. 1742 (made)

Artist/maker

Helm, Margaretha, born 1659 - died 1742 (made)
Weigel, Johann Christoph (the younger), born 1702 - died 1777 (published)

Materials and Techniques

Engraving and etching on graph paper.

Marks and inscriptions

'16'
Plate number in ink at bottom left.

Dimensions

Height: 18.1 cm Size of plate., Width: 28.9 cm Size of plate.

Descriptive line

Design for knitting, weaving and embroidery in cross and French stitch, about 1742 by Margaretha Helm (1659-1742)

Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)

Pollak, F.M. Adventures of A Collector. Embroidery. The Journal of Embroideres Guild. Spring, 1950, pp.18-20.
Harrington Daniels, M. Early Pattern Books for Lace and Embroidery, Part II The Bulletin of the Needle and Bobbin Club vol.17., no. 2, 1933, pp.21-39.
Rücker, E. Maria Sibylla Merian, 1647-1717. Germanisches Nationalmuseum, Nürnberg, Ausstellung von 12 April bis 4 Juni, plate 10, flower vase from .
Will, G.A. Supplement zu dem Nürnbergischen Gelehrten Lexicon oder Beschreibung derienigen Personen welche in den Buchstaben A bis Z vischer gänzlich ausgelassen worden sind. Nürnberg, 4, p.421.
Nürnberger Künstlerlexikon. München: Manfred H. Grieb, 2007.
Ludwig, H. Nürnberger naturgeschichtliche Maleria im 17. und 18. Jahrhundert. Mahrburg an der Lahn: Basilisken-Presse, 1998. pp.255 and 333.
Victoria and Albert Museum, Department of Engraving, Illustration and Design & Department of Paintings, Accessions 1933, London: Printed under the Authority of the Board of Education 1934

Production Note

These printed designs by Helm are catalogued as Helmin, the feminine form of Helm, in the Micromedia online catalogue.

The same patterm appeared in the Da Sera books of 1531-1532 and was copied and published again in Le Livre de Lingerie , published in Paris in 1584. A lace cover made from the Da Sera pattern exists. Helm stated that this pattern could be used for knitting, weaving, or embroidered in cross or French stitch (padded satin stitch). The engravings of baskets and vases of flowers by Maria Sibylla Merian (1647-1717) are similar to those by Helm in The Delights (92.C.3) and Further Delights (92.C.3a).

Attribution note: The information in the preface for this design states that it belongs to the chest/drawer-knitting/weaving [frame loom weaving?] as to the Cross and French (padded satin) stitch in sewing: But it is not less useful to [Barten or harten? Transcript unclear] hand knitters, weavers and cloth-weavers [Zeugwirker= Tuch- und Wollweber, cloth and wool weavers] or other people who handle similar work.

Materials

Ink; Graph paper

Techniques

Etching (printing process); Copper engraving

Subjects depicted

Weaving; French stitch; Padded satin stitch; Cross stitch; Flowers; Knitting

Categories

Designs; Embroidery; Fashion

Production Type

Design

Collection

Prints, Drawings & Paintings Collection

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