Not currently on display at the V&A

Samjak norigae (삼작 노리개)

Ornamental Pendant (Norigae, 노리개)
1991 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This knotted tassel of silk thread consists of a jade butterfly from which three strands hang. Each strand has a butterfly shaped knot, below which is a carved jade bat. Below the bats are more knots and three clusters of braid forming tassels. Called norigae in Korea, knotted tassels are worn with traditional Korean woman's dress, where they are either attached to the jacket tie or the skirt band. They can also be hung on doors, windows, dressers and blind fittings. In addition to jade, also coral, amber, gold and silver are frequently used on tassels.


Object details

Categories
Object type
TitleSamjak norigae (삼작 노리개) (generic title)
Materials and techniques
Knotted silk (maedeup) with silver and white jade adornments
Brief description
Ornamental pendant by Kim Eun-Young, knotted silk with silver and jade adornments, Korea, 1991
Physical description
Decorative pendant by Kim Eun-Young consisting of three strands: green, pink and blue. The centre piece is a jade butterfly cased in silver. From it hang three butterfly shaped knots and below them three carved jade bats. Below the bats are more knots, which surmount tassels formed of three clusters of braid.
Dimensions
  • Height: 39.2cm
Gallery label
Knot craft (maedeup, maedŭp, 매듭) pendants like this are worn by women with traditional Korean costume (hanbok, 한복). They are attached to sashes on the jacket or skirt. The shapes of the knots, tassels and jewels are inspired by nature and daily surroundings, and symbolise longevity, fertility and good fortune. Historically, pendants made of expensive materials like jade were used by women of high status.
Object history
Purchased. Registered File number 1992/513.

All the work is hand-done by Madame Kim, including dying the yarn.
Historical context
See Catalogue for L'art des noeuds maedup, tradition de la parure coréene dans L'oeuvre de Madame Kim Hee-Jin, Paris, Espace Pierre Cardin, 1986. NAL Bibliographic Ref. No.: NC.92.0679. See also register.

See catalogue for Che 10 Hoe Han'guk Maedup Chakp'um Chon (!0th Korean Ornamental Knots Exhibition), Seoul: Han'guk Munye Chinhungwon Misul Hoegwan, 1990
Subjects depicted
Summary
This knotted tassel of silk thread consists of a jade butterfly from which three strands hang. Each strand has a butterfly shaped knot, below which is a carved jade bat. Below the bats are more knots and three clusters of braid forming tassels. Called norigae in Korea, knotted tassels are worn with traditional Korean woman's dress, where they are either attached to the jacket tie or the skirt band. They can also be hung on doors, windows, dressers and blind fittings. In addition to jade, also coral, amber, gold and silver are frequently used on tassels.
Bibliographic references
  • Wilkinson, Liz. Birds, Bats & Butterflies in Korean Art. London: Sun Tree Publishing, Singapore, 1996, pp.110-111.
  • McKillop, Beth. Korean Art and Design. London: V&A Publications, 1992, p.146, fig.66
  • Kim Eun-Yang, Uri Nara Maedup, Seoul : Jinhwa Publishing Co., 1989
  • Turner, J (ed.) The Dictionary of Art Vol.18, London: MacMillan Publishers, 1996, p.380
  • Kyung-Ja Lee, Norigae: Splendor of the Korean Costume, Seoul: Ewha Womans University Press, 2005
  • Eun-Young Kim, Kim Eun-Young: A Living National Treasure of Traditional Korean Knots, Seoul Gana Art Publisher: Seoul, 2003
  • Maedeup, Korean Traditional Knots: Aesthetics of Balance and Symmetry, Museum Member Society of Korea: Seoul, 2004
  • Miller, Lesley Ellis, and Ana Cabrera Lafuente, with Claire Allen-Johnstone, eds. Silk: Fibre, Fabric and Fashion. London: Thames & Hudson Ltd in association with the Victoria and Albert Museum, 2021. ISBN 978-0-500-48065-6. This object features in the publication Silk: Fibre, Fabric and Fashion (2021)
Collection
Accession number
FE.426:1-1992

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Record createdFebruary 3, 2000
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