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Not currently on display at the V&A

Necklace

1861-1867 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

The dominant colours in Italian traditional jewellery are red and gold. For necklaces the jewellers often used coral. The production of coral jewellery was a major industry in the south of Italy since prehistoric times. Tourists loved to buy coral jewellery in fashionable shapes, but it was also very popular with Italian women, who valued it for its colour and amuletic qualities. Coral branches were often left in a natural state for amulets, but beads for necklaces were always shaped in the 19th century.

The pendant heart also had spiritual qualities for its original owner. Women throughout Catholic Europe commonly wore Christian symbols, such as the cross and heart, as jewellery. The heart also represented its modern values of love and devotion.

This necklace was bought for £4 as part of the Castellani collection of Italian Peasant Jewellery at the International Exhibition, Paris, 1867.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Hollow gold beads, coral beads, gold sheet, and gold filigree
Brief description
Necklace of gold and coral beads, with heart-shaped pendant, Palermo (Italy), 1861-1867.
Physical description
String of alternating spherical hollow gold and coral beads, with a pendant heart. The heart is slightly convex on the front, hollow on the back, and has a frame of filigree coils.
Dimensions
  • Necklace length: 32cm
  • Necklace diameter: 0.6cm
  • Pendant length: 6.3cm
  • Pendant width: 4.1cm
  • Pendant depth: 0.5cm
Marks and inscriptions
  • Woman's head facing left with '6' in a rectangular frame. (On the front of the pendant, in the centre at top.)
    Translation
    Mark for 500 standard gold, Sicily, 1826-1872.
  • Partial mark of 'GC' in rectangular frame. (On the front of the pendant, in the centre at top.)
    Translation
    Mark of unidentified maker.
  • Partial mark of dog's head (cane bracco)with studded collar. (On the front of the pendant, at the lowest tip of the frame.)
    Translation
    Mark of Matteo Serretta, assay master at Palermo, 1861-1867.
Subject depicted
Summary
The dominant colours in Italian traditional jewellery are red and gold. For necklaces the jewellers often used coral. The production of coral jewellery was a major industry in the south of Italy since prehistoric times. Tourists loved to buy coral jewellery in fashionable shapes, but it was also very popular with Italian women, who valued it for its colour and amuletic qualities. Coral branches were often left in a natural state for amulets, but beads for necklaces were always shaped in the 19th century.

The pendant heart also had spiritual qualities for its original owner. Women throughout Catholic Europe commonly wore Christian symbols, such as the cross and heart, as jewellery. The heart also represented its modern values of love and devotion.

This necklace was bought for £4 as part of the Castellani collection of Italian Peasant Jewellery at the International Exhibition, Paris, 1867.
Bibliographic references
  • 'Italian Jewellery as worn by the Peasants of Italy', Arundel Society, London, 1868, Plate 10
  • Polizzi, Francesco, 'Splendori di Sicilia al Victoria and Albert Museum' (doctoral thesis), Palermo, 2011, p.91.
Collection
Accession number
263-1868

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Record createdApril 3, 2009
Record URL
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