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Design - Kunst-und Fleiss-übende Nadel-Ergötzungen oder neu- erfundenes Neh- und Stick-Buch; The Delights of the Art and Industry of the practising Needle or newly invented Sewing and Embroidery book; Part I
  • Kunst-und Fleiss-übende Nadel-Ergötzungen oder neu- erfundenes Neh- und Stick-Buch
    Helm, Margaretha, born 1659 - died 1742
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Kunst-und Fleiss-übende Nadel-Ergötzungen oder neu- erfundenes Neh- und Stick-Buch; The Delights of the Art and Industry of the practising Needle or newly invented Sewing and Embroidery book; Part I

  • Object:

    Design

  • Date:

    ca.1725 (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Helm, Margaretha, born 1659 - died 1742 (made)
    Helmin, Margaretha, born 1659 - died 1742 (Feminine form of Helm., made)
    Johann Christoph Weigel, born 1654 - died 1726 (made)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Engraving and etching on laid paper

  • Museum number:

    E.3377-1932

  • Gallery location:

    Prints & Drawings Study Room, level F, case 92, shelf C, box 3

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This is a printed design possibly for an apron featuring two separate floral border patterns. It is from a pattern book for embroidery (about 1725) by Margaretha Helm (neé Mainberger) (born in 1659 in Deiningen, died in 1742 in Nuremberg, Germany). Helm worked in Nuremberg as an embroiderer, a teacher of embroidery and a copperplate engraver who had her designs published by Johann Christoph Weigel. The V&A has a series of pattern books for embroidery in three parts by Margaretha Helm of which this volume is Part I. It is entitled Kunst-und Fleiss-übende Nadel-Ergötzungen oder neu- erfundenes Neh- und Stick-Buch or
The Delights of the Art and Industry of the practising Needle or the newly invented Sewing and Embroidery Book .

Physical description

Printed design featuring two separate floral border patterns repeated vertically across the page. The designs feature stylised swirling acanthus leaf and floral patterns.

Date

ca.1725 (made)

Artist/maker

Helm, Margaretha, born 1659 - died 1742 (made)
Helmin, Margaretha, born 1659 - died 1742 (Feminine form of Helm., made)
Johann Christoph Weigel, born 1654 - died 1726 (made)

Materials and Techniques

Engraving and etching on laid paper

Marks and inscriptions

'Fleck = Riß' spot design
'16'

Dimensions

Height: 18.8 cm Size of plate., Width: 28.8 cm Size of plate.

Descriptive line

Printed design possibly for an apron, about 1725, by Margaretha Helm (1659-1742).

Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)

Ludwig, H. Nürnberger naturgeschichtliche Malerie im 17. und 18. Jahrhundert. Mahrburg an der Lahn: Basilisken-Presse, 1998. pp.255 and 333.
This was originally presented as the author's thesis (Berlin Technical University, 1993).
Nürnberger Künstlerlexikon. München: Manfred H. Grieb, 2007.
Will, G.A. Supplement zu dem Nürnbergischen Gelehrten Lexicon oder Beschreibung derienigen Personen welche in den Buchstaben A bis Z vischer gänzlich ausgelassen worden sind. Nürnberg, 4, p.421
Grimm, Jacob, and Grimm, Wilhelm. Deutsches Wörterbuch. Leipzig,: Verlag von S. Hirzel, Third Volume, 1862, 1741, p.
Some of the designs are lettered with the word 'Fleck' which means 'stain' or 'spot'. It is difficult to translate this word in comparison to the designs to which it refers. However, entries for the word in Grimm help:

'einen fleck aufsetzen auf den risz im kleid oder schuh.'

a spot put on the ground in the design in the dress or shoe

This is the nearest early meaning of the word in relation to dress in Grimm. In addition, there is another example:

'kaum hatte noch des schneiders hand dem affen ein erflickt gewand von bunten flecken umhangen.'

hardly out of the tailor's hand the monkey put on a patched garment with coloured spots.

Production Note

These printed designs by Helm are catalogued as by Helmin, the feminine form of Helm, in the Micromedia online catalogue.

Materials

Ink; Laid paper

Techniques

Engraving; Etching

Subjects depicted

Flowers; Border

Categories

Textiles; Designs; Embroidery; Fashion; Accessories

Production Type

Design

Collection code

PDP

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Qr_O218398
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