Earring thumbnail 1
Earring thumbnail 2
Not currently on display at the V&A

Earring

1815-1867 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Italian women have always loved lavish display. Even for the poorest, a rich show of jewellery was all important. Italian goldsmiths were expert at making a little material go a very long way. Many pieces seem too large to wear comfortably, but they are usually made of very thin gold, and are much lighter than they appear.

All Italian women wore gold earrings. Their shapes varied widely in different places. This earring is typical of the Marches, in central Italy. It is gold-plated, to look like real gold, and carries the silver mark of the Papal States. It comes from the village of Sant’Angelo in Vado. This is the place where Castellani claimed to have found silversmiths still using the techniques of the ancient Etruscans.

It was bought as part of the Castellani collection of Italian Peasant Jewellery at the International Exhibition, Paris, 1867.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Silver-gilt with applied filigree decoration
Brief description
Large silver-gilt hollow crescent earring (navicella), Papal States (Italy), 1815-1867.
Physical description
Hollow silver-gilt earring, shaped like a scalloped crescent, with three flat discs on the lower edge, each supporting a large hollow pear-shaped pendant. Filigree motif inside the crescent, and rings and rosettes of applied wire decorating all surfaces.
Dimensions
  • Length: 12.1cm
  • Width: 8.1cm
  • Depth: 3.0cm
Marks and inscriptions
  • crossed keys with mitre above, in domed frame (On one of the discs; on the wire; and on each of the three suspension loops of the pendants.)
    Translation
    Mark for 889 standard silver, Papal States, 1815-1870
  • 'TsI' in horizontal lozenge frame (On one of the discs.)
    Translation
    Mark of unidentified maker and town
Summary
Italian women have always loved lavish display. Even for the poorest, a rich show of jewellery was all important. Italian goldsmiths were expert at making a little material go a very long way. Many pieces seem too large to wear comfortably, but they are usually made of very thin gold, and are much lighter than they appear.

All Italian women wore gold earrings. Their shapes varied widely in different places. This earring is typical of the Marches, in central Italy. It is gold-plated, to look like real gold, and carries the silver mark of the Papal States. It comes from the village of Sant’Angelo in Vado. This is the place where Castellani claimed to have found silversmiths still using the techniques of the ancient Etruscans.

It was bought as part of the Castellani collection of Italian Peasant Jewellery at the International Exhibition, Paris, 1867.
Associated object
Bibliographic reference
'Italian Jewellery as worn by the Peasants of Italy', Arundel Society, London, 1868, Plate 3
Collection
Accession number
46-1868

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Record createdFebruary 13, 2009
Record URL
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