Design for embroidery in coloured silks
Embroidery Design
ca. 1840s (made)
ca. 1840s (made)
| Artist/Maker | |
| Place of origin |
Two sprigs of different species of convolvulus drawn and painted by Sarah Bland (1810-1905) about 1836 intended as designs for embroidery. Bland painted botanical illustration in addition to her designs for embroidery. In this case, these botanically accurate illustrations of two types of convolvulus are both designs for embroidery and fit with her botanical illustration. The first page of the album in which these designs are pasted is inscribed 'S. Bland. St. Leonards. 1836.' St. Leonards was a fashionable resort in Sussex. Botanical illustration done at St. Leonards in 1841 and 1843 is in another sketchbook in a private collection. These designs for embroidery are a continuation of Bland's watercolours of plants which were in a British botanical illustration tradition. Bland's method of botanical illustration, omitted in these designs, was scientific like that of a botanist; listing both common and sometimes Latin names of the plant, its location, and a record of the date. Much of this work took place in Sussex in the late spring and summer months of the 1840s.
Bland intended to use these sprigs of convolvulus for embroidery in coloured silks because she annotated them with the inscription 'For Embroidery / in coloured Silks.' The embroidery technique was probably that of satin stitch because this would be the most naturalistic technique for embroidering botanically accurate patterns.
These designs are in an album which includes Bland's collection of her own botanically accurate designs, simplified patterns from accurate botanical observation, patterns traced from magazines, commercial, printed Berlin wool work patterns, gifts of patterns, including commercial ones from friends and relatives. The designs include those for petit-point, bead-work, decoration for dresses, collars and cuffs, aprons, slippers, tablecloths and covers, cushions, bags, penwipers, initial letters, alphabets etc. In Bland's case, the gift of designs demonstrates connections between relatives of merchant and banking families and is of historical significance in bonding such families.
Bland intended to use these sprigs of convolvulus for embroidery in coloured silks because she annotated them with the inscription 'For Embroidery / in coloured Silks.' The embroidery technique was probably that of satin stitch because this would be the most naturalistic technique for embroidering botanically accurate patterns.
These designs are in an album which includes Bland's collection of her own botanically accurate designs, simplified patterns from accurate botanical observation, patterns traced from magazines, commercial, printed Berlin wool work patterns, gifts of patterns, including commercial ones from friends and relatives. The designs include those for petit-point, bead-work, decoration for dresses, collars and cuffs, aprons, slippers, tablecloths and covers, cushions, bags, penwipers, initial letters, alphabets etc. In Bland's case, the gift of designs demonstrates connections between relatives of merchant and banking families and is of historical significance in bonding such families.
Object details
| Categories | |
| Object type | |
| Title | Design for embroidery in coloured silks (assigned by artist) |
| Materials and techniques | Pencil, watercolour and body colour on wove paper |
| Brief description | Two sprigs of different species of convulvulus, one white and the other pink, ca. 1836-1854, by Sarah Bland (1810-1905). |
| Physical description | Two sprigs of different species of convolvulus, one white and the other pink. |
| Dimensions |
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| Style | |
| Production type | Design |
| Marks and inscriptions | 'For Embroidery / in coloured Silks.' (In handwriting in pen and ink to bottom left of design.) |
| Credit line | Given by Mrs D. McGregor |
| Object history | The object has been in the Bland family until it was given to the V&A by Mrs McGregor (née Bland). Historical significance: Within the study of embroidery, men tend to be recorded as professional embroiderers or pattern drawers, whereas women worked more ambigiously with designs for embroidery. Women's amateur as opposed to professional designs for embroidery raise problems because amateur work has tended to be regarded as less significant. Embroidery was a pastime but was also an economic activity. Upper middle class women's property was closely linked to their status within the family as daughters, wives and widows and only allowed semi-independence. This semi-independence was underpinned by legal, politial, and social practices which subordinated them. Nevertheless, it was combined with recognition of their economic worth within the family enterprise. However, women were restricted as they often could not be openly involved in working for money. See L. Davidoff and C. Hall (Reference Tab). Bland could not be seen to be working but it is likely that she embroidered accessories for dress, penwipers, tablecloths, book covers, and cushions as gifts which were her contribution to the household, wider family, and friendship. The quality of her samplers and designs shows the value of such gifts in terms of relationships with family and friends. Material about the perceptions of a woman's role is pertinent to the discourse on women and therefore gender history. In Bland's case, the gift of designs demonstrates connections between relatives of merchant and banking families and is of historical significance in bonding between such families. |
| Historical context | Sarah Bland (1810-1905) was listed as a 'gentlewoman' in the 1851 census return and is not recorded as having any occupation in the census returns for 1871 and 1901 which is consistent with her social status. |
| Production | There are three samplers by Sarah Bland in the collection of the Textiles and Fashion Department: T.238-1967; T.239-1967 and T.240-1967. Attribution note: This design is for embroidery and the most naturalistic way of embroidering these botanically correct designs would be to use satin stitch which produces a smooth appearance. |
| Subjects depicted | |
| Summary | Two sprigs of different species of convolvulus drawn and painted by Sarah Bland (1810-1905) about 1836 intended as designs for embroidery. Bland painted botanical illustration in addition to her designs for embroidery. In this case, these botanically accurate illustrations of two types of convolvulus are both designs for embroidery and fit with her botanical illustration. The first page of the album in which these designs are pasted is inscribed 'S. Bland. St. Leonards. 1836.' St. Leonards was a fashionable resort in Sussex. Botanical illustration done at St. Leonards in 1841 and 1843 is in another sketchbook in a private collection. These designs for embroidery are a continuation of Bland's watercolours of plants which were in a British botanical illustration tradition. Bland's method of botanical illustration, omitted in these designs, was scientific like that of a botanist; listing both common and sometimes Latin names of the plant, its location, and a record of the date. Much of this work took place in Sussex in the late spring and summer months of the 1840s. Bland intended to use these sprigs of convolvulus for embroidery in coloured silks because she annotated them with the inscription 'For Embroidery / in coloured Silks.' The embroidery technique was probably that of satin stitch because this would be the most naturalistic technique for embroidering botanically accurate patterns. These designs are in an album which includes Bland's collection of her own botanically accurate designs, simplified patterns from accurate botanical observation, patterns traced from magazines, commercial, printed Berlin wool work patterns, gifts of patterns, including commercial ones from friends and relatives. The designs include those for petit-point, bead-work, decoration for dresses, collars and cuffs, aprons, slippers, tablecloths and covers, cushions, bags, penwipers, initial letters, alphabets etc. In Bland's case, the gift of designs demonstrates connections between relatives of merchant and banking families and is of historical significance in bonding such families. |
| Bibliographic reference | Davidoff, L and Hall, C. Family Fortunes, Men, Women of the English Middle Class 1780-1850. London: Routledge, 2002. 387 p. |
| Collection | |
| Accession number | E.372:81-1967 |
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| Record created | February 8, 2009 |
| Record URL |
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