Driving Coat thumbnail 1
Not currently on display at the V&A

Driving Coat

ca. 1906 - ca. 1908 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This versatile double-breasted coat made of a heavy wool would have been ideal for outdoor wear. At the turn of the century a growing interest in sports and leisure pursuits led to more relaxed clothing for men. Comfortable clothes were needed to ride a bicycle, drive a motor car or play golf. This resulted in a range of informal styles that fed into mainstream fashion:

A man's wardrobe is now almost as varied as a woman's. He has different costumes for walking, riding, driving, visiting, boating, hunting, shooting, golfing, bicycling, tennis, and cricket, dining, smoking, and lounging, football, racing, and yachting, to say nothing of uniform and the Court suit, besides the now developing motor-car costume. (Mrs Humphry, Manners for Men, London 1897)

This suit has two slanting hip pockets with flaps and a small ticket pocket at the waist seam on the right-hand side. A tailor's label, stitched to the right inside breast pocket, is inscribed with the words, 'Hammond & Co., Ltd., 465 Oxford Street., London Fo 501 Mons. Paul Cocteau'. Paul Cocteau was the brother of the French writer and film maker Jean Cocteau. He preferred to purchase his sporting dress in England as he considered it to be the best quality.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Woven houndstooth check tweed, lined with grey silk and woven wool
Brief description
Driving coat, English, ca. 1906 - ca. 1908
Physical description
Driving coat of black and white hounds tooth check tweed. It has a 10 button double breasted fastening and the front and wide overlap over the centre vent are cut on the straight, with flared skirts. The waist, back and side body seams are double stitched. The lapels are pointed and the collar can be can be fastened close to the neck where there is a curved, buttoned strap. There are two slanting hip pockets with flaps and small ticket pocket at the waist seam on the right hand side. The cuffs are open with rounded corners and lined back. The buttons are made of bone.

The coat is lined to the waist with grey silk and the skirts are lined with grey, black and white vertical stripes of woven wool, with a horizontal black stripe. There are two inside breast pockets.
Dimensions
  • Length: 50in
  • Chest measurement circumference: 38in
  • Waist measurement circumference: 34in
Marks and inscriptions
'Hammond & Co., Ltd.,465 Oxford St., London Fo 501 Mons. Paul Cocteau overstamped 10th oct 1908' (Content of tailors label in the inside right breast pocket.)
Credit line
Given by Sir Phillip and Lady Joubert
Object history
Registered File number 1963/1276
Historical context
It was said by donors to belong to the brother of Jean Cocteau originally. He preferred to purchase his sporting dress in England as he considered it to be of the highest quality.
Production
465 Oxford St
Summary
This versatile double-breasted coat made of a heavy wool would have been ideal for outdoor wear. At the turn of the century a growing interest in sports and leisure pursuits led to more relaxed clothing for men. Comfortable clothes were needed to ride a bicycle, drive a motor car or play golf. This resulted in a range of informal styles that fed into mainstream fashion:

A man's wardrobe is now almost as varied as a woman's. He has different costumes for walking, riding, driving, visiting, boating, hunting, shooting, golfing, bicycling, tennis, and cricket, dining, smoking, and lounging, football, racing, and yachting, to say nothing of uniform and the Court suit, besides the now developing motor-car costume. (Mrs Humphry, Manners for Men, London 1897)

This suit has two slanting hip pockets with flaps and a small ticket pocket at the waist seam on the right-hand side. A tailor's label, stitched to the right inside breast pocket, is inscribed with the words, 'Hammond & Co., Ltd., 465 Oxford Street., London Fo 501 Mons. Paul Cocteau'. Paul Cocteau was the brother of the French writer and film maker Jean Cocteau. He preferred to purchase his sporting dress in England as he considered it to be the best quality.
Collection
Accession number
T.96-1963

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Record createdDecember 15, 1999
Record URL
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