Textile Fragment
1275-1350 (made)
| Artist/Maker | |
| Place of origin |
This fragment is part of a group of Chinese silks in the V&A collection, broadly dated between the late thirteenth century and the mid-fifteenth century, and supposedly came from Egypt. The one shown here, in blue damask, appears to be a section of a garment showing presumably a side seam with a gore insertion.
The pattern of the silk consist of a palmette or lotus design with the stylized Chinese character shou, meaning 'longevity'. However, the pattern might have been misunderstood by the tailor as it is utilised 'upside-down' as well as in correct reading orientation. This might suggest that at least the tailoring was done in a context where the reading of Chinese characters was irrelevant.
However, patterned silk was a luxiorus commodity and every spare inch would have been utilised, as can be seen in the gore where two small pieces been stitched together with no apparent consideration to the motifs.
The pattern of the silk consist of a palmette or lotus design with the stylized Chinese character shou, meaning 'longevity'. However, the pattern might have been misunderstood by the tailor as it is utilised 'upside-down' as well as in correct reading orientation. This might suggest that at least the tailoring was done in a context where the reading of Chinese characters was irrelevant.
However, patterned silk was a luxiorus commodity and every spare inch would have been utilised, as can be seen in the gore where two small pieces been stitched together with no apparent consideration to the motifs.
Object details
| Categories | |
| Object type | |
| Materials and techniques | Silk damask |
| Brief description | Blue silk damask with Chinese characters, 1300-1399, China |
| Physical description | Silk damask in two shades of blue showing rows of palmette or lotus pattern outlined by cloud like ornament and enclosing the Chinese character shou, meaning longevity. Each lotus or palmette have wavy stems. The fragment appears to originally been a section of a garment; presumably a side seam with a gore. |
| Dimensions |
|
| Style | |
| Marks and inscriptions | shou (This particular Chinese character was to be used extensively on different kinds of objects from the Ming dynasty (1386-1644). There is not much evidence for its widespread use before this time. although the relative paucity of early surviving textiles should caution against making generalizations.)
|
| Object history | Purchased from Mr. H. Wallis F.S.A. (9 Beauchamp Road, Upper Norwood, S.E.), accessioned in 1898. This acquisition information reflects that found in the Asia Department registers, as part of a 2022 provenance research project. The fragment was found in a tomb at the necropolis of Al Azam in upper Egypt. A piece of linen was included in the purchase of this damask, whereabouts unknown today. It was purchased from H. Wallis Esq. Historical significance: This piece, found in a tomb, is significant evidence of the export trade of Chinese silk to the Mamluk market. |
| Historical context | A similar fragment is in the Hermitage, Russia. and in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. |
| Production | Date based on Metropolitan's dating |
| Subjects depicted | |
| Summary | This fragment is part of a group of Chinese silks in the V&A collection, broadly dated between the late thirteenth century and the mid-fifteenth century, and supposedly came from Egypt. The one shown here, in blue damask, appears to be a section of a garment showing presumably a side seam with a gore insertion. The pattern of the silk consist of a palmette or lotus design with the stylized Chinese character shou, meaning 'longevity'. However, the pattern might have been misunderstood by the tailor as it is utilised 'upside-down' as well as in correct reading orientation. This might suggest that at least the tailoring was done in a context where the reading of Chinese characters was irrelevant. However, patterned silk was a luxiorus commodity and every spare inch would have been utilised, as can be seen in the gore where two small pieces been stitched together with no apparent consideration to the motifs. |
| Associated object | |
| Bibliographic reference | ed. Vollmer, Keall and Nagai-Berthrong, Silk Roads. China Ships (Toronto: Royal Ontario Museum, 1983), p. 18 |
| Collection | |
| Accession number | 753-1898 |
About this object record
Explore the Collections contains over a million catalogue records, and over half a million images. It is a working database that includes information compiled over the life of the museum. Some of our records may contain offensive and discriminatory language, or reflect outdated ideas, practice and analysis. We are committed to addressing these issues, and to review and update our records accordingly.
You can write to us to suggest improvements to the record.
Suggest feedback
You can write to us to suggest improvements to the record.
Suggest feedback
| Record created | November 12, 2008 |
| Record URL |
Download as: JSONIIIF Manifest
