Woven Silk
ca. 1175-1250 (made)
| Artist/Maker | |
| Place of origin |
This textile was originally a superb quality silk, dating from the late 12th century. Although now very degraded, the pattern of elongated ogees with paired birds is part of a beautifully designed and executed pattern. There is some evidence that the gut or membrane strips were originally gilded, which would have produced a very high quality and showy textile.
It is difficult to pinpoint the country of origin for this type of textile, as at this time the favoured designs were very similar over a large area, covering China in the east and Europe in the west. However, the animal substrate strips suggest a Chinese or Central Asian origin.
It is difficult to pinpoint the country of origin for this type of textile, as at this time the favoured designs were very similar over a large area, covering China in the east and Europe in the west. However, the animal substrate strips suggest a Chinese or Central Asian origin.
Object details
| Category | |
| Object type | |
| Materials and techniques | Brocaded silk with animal substrate strips.
Tests 02/12/98: EDXRF (Energy Dispersant X-Ray Fluorescnece) was used to determine the coating of the animal substrate woven into the textile. Test ONE was carried out in an area fairly near to the worst edge (for ease of handling). The results showed Lead, Tin and Iron to be present. Test TWO was carried out in a different area (still fairly close to Test ONE). This was carried out mainly to determine whether any gold was present. The result was the same as the first test. A test was carried out on the backboard, tissue and nylon net which has supported the textile in the previous two tests to determine whether there were any contaminants coming from these. Iron was present in these but not enough to rule out some Iron being present in the textile. Further tests could be carried out to determine whether there are any traces of gold elsewhere but as the textile is fairly uniformly degraded it is probably unlikely that anything else would show up. Lead with tin present is fairly normal but whether the tin was a coating on the lead this could not be determined. |
| Brief description | Full loom width of compound brocaded silk, possibly made in Central Asia or China, ca. 1175-1250 |
| Physical description | Full loom width of compound woven silk brocaded with supplementary wefts depicting a very large repeat design of confronting birds, probably eagles or perhaps parrots, within elongated ogivals (74.5 cm high - probably eagles), gut or membrane strips most likely originally gilded. Conservation Condition Report, by Anne Amos, 26.1.98: Full loom width of woven fabric. The whole textile is generally very degraded; the whole being very tendered and limp as if it has been washed many times. It is possible that originally the 'Brocaced' lamella's were gilded although none of this appears to remain any longer. Some evidence of oxidised gilding does however appear on the floats that have been covered by the weave. There is much staining present. Areas of the textile have had fabric stitched over them at some point, this is no longer present but stotches remain and the textile appears slightly cleaner in those areas. |
| Dimensions |
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| Style | |
| Credit line | Given by Francesca Galloway |
| Object history | The length of woven silk was given to the museum by Francesca Galloway, a London textile dealer. The whole textile is generally very degraded, the whole being very tendered and limp as if it has been washed many times. There is much staining present. Areas of the textile have had fabric stitched over them at some point, this is no longer present but stitches remain and the textiles appears slightly cleaner in these areas. It is most likely that the length of silk originally came from a burial, or from an ecclesiastical context, as it is improbable that it would have survived in any other context. The silk appears to have been in Byron Fine Arts Ltd., Geneva, Switzerland, sometime prior to Francesca Galloway's possession. Historical significance: The full loom width is present and the great length of the textile, both add to its interest as an early acquisition. Such textiles, particularly of this size from Central Asia, are rare and it is of major interest as a study piece. The flat strips made of animal substrate point to Central Asian or Chinese production (Indian nor Islamic textiles use the flat strips). |
| Subject depicted | |
| Summary | This textile was originally a superb quality silk, dating from the late 12th century. Although now very degraded, the pattern of elongated ogees with paired birds is part of a beautifully designed and executed pattern. There is some evidence that the gut or membrane strips were originally gilded, which would have produced a very high quality and showy textile. It is difficult to pinpoint the country of origin for this type of textile, as at this time the favoured designs were very similar over a large area, covering China in the east and Europe in the west. However, the animal substrate strips suggest a Chinese or Central Asian origin. |
| Collection | |
| Accession number | T.114-1998 |
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| Record created | November 7, 2008 |
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