Not currently on display at the V&A

Pair of Shoes

1865-1870 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

The low-heeled lady's shoe was essentially a heeled version of the flat satin slipper popular for much of the first half of the nineteenth century. Classically inspired 'sandal shoes', with square toe and throat, flat sole, rosette and ribbon ankle ties, continued to be worn in black or white for formal wear right up until the 1860s. However, by the 1850s more elaborate styles were already beginning to emerge and heels came back into fashion.

This pair of black low-heeled shoes with striking bright blue cutwork, embroidery and tiered grosgrain bow is an example of the fashion for colourful footwear. It is possible that they were made especially to complement the colours of a particular dress. The fine cutwork and delicate embroidery are typical of the designs of Julien Mayer, the manufacturer responsible for this pair. Recognised in the trade for his prowess in shoemaking Mayer advertised his successes on the shoes themselves by stamping the soles with information about the prizes he had won. This pair is stamped with three small medallions proclaiming the awards he won in London in 1862, Porto in 1865 and Paris in 1867.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 3 parts.

  • Shoe
  • Shoe
  • Shoe Box
Materials and techniques
Embroidered, cut and stamped kid leather, satin, linen, cotton thread, silk, cardboard
Brief description
Pair of low-heeled kid leather shoes and cardboard shoe box, made by Julien Mayer, Paris, 1865-1870
Physical description
Pair of low-heeled kid leather shoes embroidered with cutwork and embroidery on the vamp and with a tiered bow at the throat. Square toe and throat, and black leather upper with a pair of forward-facing side seams stitched in contrasting cream thread. Leather on the toe is cut to reveal bright blue satin beneath, and the leather is embroidered with chain stitch in blue and white around the cutwork. Large triple tiered bow of bright blue silk grosgrain ribbon at the throat, stitched to gauze which in turn is stitched to the throat of each shoe. The edges are bound in bright blue silk, and stitched with cream thread. Cream insole and quarter lining, and cream linen vamp lining. Brown leather sole, and the low heel is nailed up through the base and sides and are covered with black leather.

White cardboard box bound black. The corners are reinforced in green.
Dimensions
  • Each shoe height: 7cm
  • Each shoe width: 4.8cm
  • Each shoe length: 21cm
  • Each shoe length: 9in
  • Height: 90mm
  • Width: 60mm
  • Depth: 225mm
Dims each
Credit line
Given by Mrs W. F. H Masters
Summary
The low-heeled lady's shoe was essentially a heeled version of the flat satin slipper popular for much of the first half of the nineteenth century. Classically inspired 'sandal shoes', with square toe and throat, flat sole, rosette and ribbon ankle ties, continued to be worn in black or white for formal wear right up until the 1860s. However, by the 1850s more elaborate styles were already beginning to emerge and heels came back into fashion.

This pair of black low-heeled shoes with striking bright blue cutwork, embroidery and tiered grosgrain bow is an example of the fashion for colourful footwear. It is possible that they were made especially to complement the colours of a particular dress. The fine cutwork and delicate embroidery are typical of the designs of Julien Mayer, the manufacturer responsible for this pair. Recognised in the trade for his prowess in shoemaking Mayer advertised his successes on the shoes themselves by stamping the soles with information about the prizes he had won. This pair is stamped with three small medallions proclaiming the awards he won in London in 1862, Porto in 1865 and Paris in 1867.
Collection
Accession number
T.81 to B-1962

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Record createdNovember 5, 2008
Record URL
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