Pair of earrings, India ca. 1900

The crescent-shaped gold earrings are set with open-set Golconda diamonds that are rose- and brilliant-cut above the girdle with flat backs. The emerald pendants are unfaceted. The earrings fasten by means of a horizontal bar that screws into the upper extremities of the crescent; the bars are set at each end with small diamonds though one is missing.
Joanna Whalley adds: The emeralds are suspended unfaceted pendeloque beads. They are heavily included and appear to have been sourced predominantly from the Urals (tremolite needles, mica platelets) and Zambia (limonite tubes, clouds of magnetite crystals, mica platelets). They have been oiled (common practice) and this oil has deteriorated and yellowed with age. The majority of the diamonds appear to be of the rare type IIa, evidenced by their reaction to UV light. On the earring with the loss to the ear post diamond: of the 11 main diamonds (under LWUV), six fluoresce with a strong orange colour, 1 is inert and 4 of the smaller diamonds have a more typical blue fluorescence (type I). On the earring with no losses, of the 11 main diamonds, 6 fluoresce with a strong orange colour, 3 fluoresce yellow with a bluish core (type I), 1 has blue fluorescence, and 1 is inert. Type IIa diamonds are generally known as 'Golconda diamonds', although type IIa may also be sourced from other mines so this is not always a correct indication of source. In this case, the donor stated that they are Golconda diamonds, so the gemological identification can be seen as almost certain confirmation.

Given by Princess Naheed Mazharuddin Khan of Surat in memory of her parents Nayer and Qamar Ahmad

Given by Princess Naheed Mazharuddin Khan of Surat, and worn by her mother. Made in Hyderabad, Deccan, ca. 1900.

Indian earrings of this form are known as chandbali (crescent moon). They are made of gold, set with diamonds and with emerald pendants. Their design places them within the tradition of Mughal jewellery but the open settings of the Golconda diamonds reflect the influence of Europe. They were made in Hyderabad, Deccan, in about 1900.

IS.25:1, 2-2008