Bag Face
1875-1900 (made)
| Artist/Maker | |
| Place of origin |
Yomud (?) bag face. Woven with a rectangular field containing a series of guls, set in a plain brick red ground. The back is a continuation of the warp threads woven in tabby. An additional plaited cord of brown wool is sewn to the top. There are marker arrows in blue.
WARP: brown wool; Z2S; depressed in places; 17 threads to the inch (67 per dm).
WEFT: brown wool; Z spun, unplied; 2 parallel threads per shoot and 2 shoots after each row of knots; 19 knots to the inch (70 per dm).
PILE: wool; 7 colours: red, light orange, green/blue, dark blue, blue, light brown, white; symmetrical knots tied around 2 threads; 162 knots to the sq. inch (2345 per sq. dm). The red ground and the elem have short 2.5 - 4 cm. rows of knots where extra knots lie between the shoots.
SIDE FINISH: both pile sides have 2 cords overcast in shiny black hair. Both plain weave sides have 2 cords of return weft.
END FINISH: lower (ie. top of back): 2.5 cms. of plain weave as back (see below) turned and stitched in place. Along the fold a stout cord in plaited brown wool has been sewn on to strengthen the bag opening. Upper 2.5 cm. of plain weave, first with narrow band of green/blue wool weft and a wider one of red, turned and stitched in place with a cord, as above, along the fold.
DESIGN: field: red ground with four bands of four guls with three and two half bands of three and two half secondary guls, offset. Primary guls have a blue quartered lozenge with lower left and upper right infilled with light brown, and with lower right and upper left with light orange. The lozenge is within an elongated red cross that lies on a stepped white cross and with a hooked outline in dark blue.
The secondary motif has a cluster of four triangles, two in white and two in dark blue, with light brown and light orange infill and with their stems pointing horizontally outwards. The cluster lies between two hooked green/blue brackets.
Main border: white ground with central row and two half rows of stepped crosses in various colours. The lower and upper borders have inward-facing pairs of arrowheads in place of the half crosses.
Inner and outer border: a reciprocal "running dog" pattern in red and dark blue.
Outermost border: the elem has a solid red ground of 18.5 cms. with four dark blue knots down the centre continuing the line in white in the field. At the bottom left is a small geometric motif in dark blue. Below the pile is 1 cm. of plain weave with red wool weft. The solid red of the elem continues along the other three sides. Along the top third in from either side, are two upward pointing arrowheads in blue, at the head of each are four large jufti knots (brown and green/blue, light orange and green/blue) which may have been fastening points for closing the bag. The jufti knots lie along the first of two bands of small, dark blue diagonal blocks, the final row of knots is in green/blue wool. Below this is a further 2.5 cms. of plain weave, the first 1.25 cms. in red wool weft and the second in cream at which point the weaving is folded to create the two sides of the bag.
The back: plain weave with cream wool weft. Towards the edge are the remains of thick stitching in brown and light brown in the same wool or hair as the cords across the top of the bag.
WARP: brown wool; Z2S; depressed in places; 17 threads to the inch (67 per dm).
WEFT: brown wool; Z spun, unplied; 2 parallel threads per shoot and 2 shoots after each row of knots; 19 knots to the inch (70 per dm).
PILE: wool; 7 colours: red, light orange, green/blue, dark blue, blue, light brown, white; symmetrical knots tied around 2 threads; 162 knots to the sq. inch (2345 per sq. dm). The red ground and the elem have short 2.5 - 4 cm. rows of knots where extra knots lie between the shoots.
SIDE FINISH: both pile sides have 2 cords overcast in shiny black hair. Both plain weave sides have 2 cords of return weft.
END FINISH: lower (ie. top of back): 2.5 cms. of plain weave as back (see below) turned and stitched in place. Along the fold a stout cord in plaited brown wool has been sewn on to strengthen the bag opening. Upper 2.5 cm. of plain weave, first with narrow band of green/blue wool weft and a wider one of red, turned and stitched in place with a cord, as above, along the fold.
DESIGN: field: red ground with four bands of four guls with three and two half bands of three and two half secondary guls, offset. Primary guls have a blue quartered lozenge with lower left and upper right infilled with light brown, and with lower right and upper left with light orange. The lozenge is within an elongated red cross that lies on a stepped white cross and with a hooked outline in dark blue.
The secondary motif has a cluster of four triangles, two in white and two in dark blue, with light brown and light orange infill and with their stems pointing horizontally outwards. The cluster lies between two hooked green/blue brackets.
Main border: white ground with central row and two half rows of stepped crosses in various colours. The lower and upper borders have inward-facing pairs of arrowheads in place of the half crosses.
Inner and outer border: a reciprocal "running dog" pattern in red and dark blue.
Outermost border: the elem has a solid red ground of 18.5 cms. with four dark blue knots down the centre continuing the line in white in the field. At the bottom left is a small geometric motif in dark blue. Below the pile is 1 cm. of plain weave with red wool weft. The solid red of the elem continues along the other three sides. Along the top third in from either side, are two upward pointing arrowheads in blue, at the head of each are four large jufti knots (brown and green/blue, light orange and green/blue) which may have been fastening points for closing the bag. The jufti knots lie along the first of two bands of small, dark blue diagonal blocks, the final row of knots is in green/blue wool. Below this is a further 2.5 cms. of plain weave, the first 1.25 cms. in red wool weft and the second in cream at which point the weaving is folded to create the two sides of the bag.
The back: plain weave with cream wool weft. Towards the edge are the remains of thick stitching in brown and light brown in the same wool or hair as the cords across the top of the bag.
Object details
| Categories | |
| Object type | |
| Materials and techniques | Wool |
| Brief description | Bag face of woven wool, made in Central Asia, 1875-1900 |
| Physical description | Yomud (?) bag face. Woven with a rectangular field containing a series of guls, set in a plain brick red ground. The back is a continuation of the warp threads woven in tabby. An additional plaited cord of brown wool is sewn to the top. There are marker arrows in blue. WARP: brown wool; Z2S; depressed in places; 17 threads to the inch (67 per dm). WEFT: brown wool; Z spun, unplied; 2 parallel threads per shoot and 2 shoots after each row of knots; 19 knots to the inch (70 per dm). PILE: wool; 7 colours: red, light orange, green/blue, dark blue, blue, light brown, white; symmetrical knots tied around 2 threads; 162 knots to the sq. inch (2345 per sq. dm). The red ground and the elem have short 2.5 - 4 cm. rows of knots where extra knots lie between the shoots. SIDE FINISH: both pile sides have 2 cords overcast in shiny black hair. Both plain weave sides have 2 cords of return weft. END FINISH: lower (ie. top of back): 2.5 cms. of plain weave as back (see below) turned and stitched in place. Along the fold a stout cord in plaited brown wool has been sewn on to strengthen the bag opening. Upper 2.5 cm. of plain weave, first with narrow band of green/blue wool weft and a wider one of red, turned and stitched in place with a cord, as above, along the fold. DESIGN: field: red ground with four bands of four guls with three and two half bands of three and two half secondary guls, offset. Primary guls have a blue quartered lozenge with lower left and upper right infilled with light brown, and with lower right and upper left with light orange. The lozenge is within an elongated red cross that lies on a stepped white cross and with a hooked outline in dark blue. The secondary motif has a cluster of four triangles, two in white and two in dark blue, with light brown and light orange infill and with their stems pointing horizontally outwards. The cluster lies between two hooked green/blue brackets. Main border: white ground with central row and two half rows of stepped crosses in various colours. The lower and upper borders have inward-facing pairs of arrowheads in place of the half crosses. Inner and outer border: a reciprocal "running dog" pattern in red and dark blue. Outermost border: the elem has a solid red ground of 18.5 cms. with four dark blue knots down the centre continuing the line in white in the field. At the bottom left is a small geometric motif in dark blue. Below the pile is 1 cm. of plain weave with red wool weft. The solid red of the elem continues along the other three sides. Along the top third in from either side, are two upward pointing arrowheads in blue, at the head of each are four large jufti knots (brown and green/blue, light orange and green/blue) which may have been fastening points for closing the bag. The jufti knots lie along the first of two bands of small, dark blue diagonal blocks, the final row of knots is in green/blue wool. Below this is a further 2.5 cms. of plain weave, the first 1.25 cms. in red wool weft and the second in cream at which point the weaving is folded to create the two sides of the bag. The back: plain weave with cream wool weft. Towards the edge are the remains of thick stitching in brown and light brown in the same wool or hair as the cords across the top of the bag. |
| Dimensions |
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| Production | cf: Gombos (1975) "Yomut chuval, 19th century, (A)"; ill. 58, "Yomut chuval, 18th-19th century, (S)". |
| Collection | |
| Accession number | T.337-1982 |
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| Record created | October 9, 2008 |
| Record URL |
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