Not currently on display at the V&A

Lappet

ca. 1700 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This lappet formed part of a headdress, known as a ‘lace head’ in the 18th century. It was composed of a curved panel, the cap back, to which two long streamers were attached, called lappets. The whole ensemble was finished with a lace frill. The lappets might be pinned up on top of the head in pleats, but more usually were left to hang loose, fluttering with the slightest movement.

Among the various items of Englishwomen’s fashionable dress for which lace was used in the 18th century, the lace head was a particular focus for the display of wealth and taste. The quality of the lace, the excellence of its design and fine workmanship, and thus its likely expense, would be immediately apparent to observers. The design of this example includes elements of Chinoiserie.


Object details

Category
Object type
Materials and techniques
Bobbin lace worked in linen thread
Brief description
Bobbin lace lappet, Brussels, ca. 1700.
Physical description
Square-ended lappet delicately patterned with tiny motifs arranged symmetrically on a vertical axis with Berainesque canopies and draperies. Among the tiny scrolling leafy stems from which most of the pattern is composed, are chinoiserie and western motifs, including three barrels with wine (?) pouring from the ends, trophies of war beneath a canopy, a rider on a camel, a turbanned bust, and chinoiserie figures sitting drinking at a table beneath a canopy.

Technique : Vrai droschel ground, partly applied and partly inset motifs of minute overlapped clothwork tapes, in places expanded into larger cloth-work areas, some half-stitch on the larger motifs, and some use of decorative fillings.

A piece of matching lace (8.5 cm long) has been joined to the upper end.
Dimensions
  • Length: 635mm
  • Maximum width: 105mm
Credit line
Given by Mrs A M Wedgwood in memory of Mrs A A Gordon Clark
Object history
From the colelction of Iris, Lady Lawrence, in which it was numbered 40.
Summary
This lappet formed part of a headdress, known as a ‘lace head’ in the 18th century. It was composed of a curved panel, the cap back, to which two long streamers were attached, called lappets. The whole ensemble was finished with a lace frill. The lappets might be pinned up on top of the head in pleats, but more usually were left to hang loose, fluttering with the slightest movement.

Among the various items of Englishwomen’s fashionable dress for which lace was used in the 18th century, the lace head was a particular focus for the display of wealth and taste. The quality of the lace, the excellence of its design and fine workmanship, and thus its likely expense, would be immediately apparent to observers. The design of this example includes elements of Chinoiserie.
Collection
Accession number
T.323-1975

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Record createdOctober 1, 2008
Record URL
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