This is a good example of a sheath dress, popular throughout the 1950s. Its construction appears simple, but the clean lines are achieved by skilled cutting and intricate diagonal seaming. The grosgrain waist stay (grosgrain is a heavily ribbed silk) bears the label 'Jean Desses 17 Avenue Matignon PARIS'.
Physical description
Day dress of black and white woollen tweed. Waisted sheath dress with set in elbow length sleeves and centre back zip fastening. The bodice top is cut in four sections with the centre front seam slit to form a long, narrow stand away V-neck. In the midriff, a triangular panel on the right overlaps with another on the left. The base and the apex of the overlapping triangle are marked at the waistline by two large metallic grey leather buttons. A raised seam defines the waistline. The centre front seam continues down the front skirt. The bodice back has darts at the shoulder and waist and the skirt back has darts from the side waist angled to the small of the back. A small mandarin type collar is formed by a facing at the back neck. The straight elbow length sleeves have turn over darts which terminate in acute triangles at the hems where they are secured by large metallic grey leather buttons. The triangular seaming and darting at the midriff and sleeves are interlined with white cotton and at the bodice front by crêpe de Chine. The dress has an inner petersham waistband with bears the label, black on white, 'Jean Desses 17 Avenue Matignon Paris'.
Place of Origin
Paris, France (made)
Date
ca. 1953 (made)
Artist/maker
Jean Dessès, born 1904 - died 1970 (designer)
Materials and Techniques
Woollen tweed lined with crêpe de Chine, and grosgain
Marks and inscriptions
'Jean Dessès 17 Avenue Matignon Paris'
Object history note
Opal Holt was born in Canada in 1887 but lived in the US until the end of the Second World War. She travelled extensively between the wars and was in the first plane to land in Bali. She married Herbert Holt, a Canadian who lived a large part of his life in England, as her third husband in 1946. They came to England and Europe every summer and Opal Holt began buying clothes in Paris for her life in England, and for the Bahamas in Winter, over a period of about thirty years. She died in 1980.
Given by Mrs D.M Haynes and Mrs. Clark (nee Holt; Opal Holt's step-daughters).
Descriptive line
Day dress of woollen tweed, designed by Jean Dessès, Paris, ca. 1953
Exhibition History
The Golden Age of Couture. Paris and London 1947 - 1957 (Victoria and Albert Museum 22/09/2007-06/01/2008)
Labels and date
Dress
Jean Dessès (1904-70)
Paris
1953
Mrs Opal Holt was a dedicated couture client. Spending the winter in the Bahamas and the summer in Europe, she required clothes for every eventuality and occasion. She bought clothes from both Paris and London couturiers every year and patronised all the leading houses. This exhibition includes 6 of her suits, 2 cocktail dresses and 2 evening gowns.
Woollen tweed, lined with crêpe de Chine
Ensemble worn by Mrs Opal Holt and given by Mrs Haynes and Mrs Clark
V&A: T.102-1982
Hat
Christian Dior, Paris
About 1953
Velour
V&A: T.158-1982 [22/09/2007-06/01/2008]
Materials
Grosgrain; Crepe de chine; Wool tweed
Techniques
Weaving; Sewing; Tailoring
Categories
Fashion; Day wear; Women's clothes
Production Type
Haute couture
Collection code
T&F
