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Evening dress

Evening dress

  • Place of origin:

    London, England (made)

  • Date:

    ca. 1908 (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Jays Ltd (designer)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Satin, with silk panels embroidered with silver-gilt strip, coil, thread, spangles, pearls and diamantes, and trimmed with velvet, with boned bodice; net is modern replacement

  • Credit Line:

    Given by Lord and Lady Cowdray.

  • Museum number:

    T.193&A-1970

  • Gallery location:

    In Storage

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The dress is dominated by the boldly embroidered panels imported from Turkey and made up in London. In style this dress is transitional between the pronounced curved shapes of the early 1900s and the straighter lines (with high waists) that had become current by about 1909. There is some evidence that an earlier dress may have been adapted to suit the tastes of 1908. The inside of the bodice has a grosgrain waist stay (grosgrain is a heavily ribbed silk) with the woven label of Jays Ltd, which bears a taffeta ribbon marked 'Lady Pearson', the name of the wearer.

Physical description

Evening dress made from pink silk and satin, trimmed with a heavy silver embroidery.
[Bodice] The bodice is made from pink silk and has a low neck with wide lappets embroidered with a formal flower pattern in silver, running from the shoulders to the centre neck. The bodice material drapes slightly and is caught back below the shoulder to show a short, tight under sleeve of white chiffon, trimmed with bands of gauged pink chiffon. The waist is fairly high and there is a draped, attached 'cummerbund'. The crossed, embroidered lappets attach to this at the back. The lining is of pink silk, covered at the font with pink chiffon. The dress is boned and has a grosgrain waist tape marker 'Jays Ltd, Regent Street, London. By appointment to the Queen'. Stitched to it is a pencil label; 'Lady Pearson'.
[Skirt] The skirt is made of pink silk, gathered onto a waistband. It is full length and trained. The panel from the knee, front and back, is of matching satin with a large, silver motif in front and a silver, embroidered border. There are similar embroidered motifs at the back. At each side there are embroidered bands from waist to hem, open from the hip and laced across with heavy, tasselled silver cords. The skirt is lined with pink silk and covered at the back with pink chiffon. The portions that show in the side slits are of pink satin with bands of self material at the hem. The flounce inside the hem is of matching taffeta. It fastens at the centre back.

Place of Origin

London, England (made)

Date

ca. 1908 (made)

Artist/maker

Jays Ltd (designer)

Materials and Techniques

Satin, with silk panels embroidered with silver-gilt strip, coil, thread, spangles, pearls and diamantes, and trimmed with velvet, with boned bodice; net is modern replacement

Marks and inscriptions

'Jays Ltd, Regent Street, London. By appointment to the Queen'
'Mrs Pearson'

Descriptive line

Evening dress, London, ca. 1908.

Categories

Fashion; Women's clothes

Collection code

T&F

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Qr_O16781
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