Not currently on display at the V&A

Tea Gown

ca. 1900 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place Of Origin

The elaborate and luxurious decoration on this gown characterises fashionable 'at home' wear of the late 19th century and early 20th. It was worn by the mother of Lady Hoyer Millar. In September 1900 The Queen, The Lady's Newspaper described the ideal tea-gown: 'It is quite a perfect gown showing soft falling kilted flounces at the hem, silk muslin or silk serving to enhance the beauty of incomparable lace'.

The waist stay (20 inch waist) has the 'Worth Paris' label and is inscribed with the number '63331'. Charles Frederick Worth (1825-1895) was a celebrated couture dressmaker in Paris. He was born in England at Bourne in Lincolnshire, and started working at the age of 12 in a draper’s shop in London. After working for various haberdashers and silk mercers, he left for Paris in 1845. In 1858 he went into partnership with a Swedish businessman, Otto Bobergh, and opened his own house. He was soon patronised by the Empress Eugénie (1826-1920), wife of the French Emperor, Napoleon III, and her influence was instrumental to his success. Obtaining made-to-measure clothes from his house was a symbol of social and financial success. They were appreciated for their beauty, elegance and fine workmanship.


object details
Categories
Object Type
Materials and Techniques
Satin, chiffon crêpe with ecru tamboured net, lace, lined, boned
Brief Description
Satin tea gown, Worth, Paris, ca. 1900
Physical Description
Satin tea gown with two delicate overlayers of pink chiffon crêpe continuing over the train. The bodice is pouched into a broad satin belt with a falling sash. The gown is machine-stitched with hand-finished. Lined with two bones which fastens at the centre front and the bodice wraps over to fasten along the left side, all with hooks and eyes. Ecru tambour embroidered net draped over the shoulders. Low neck and trimmed with an insertion of the lace, as are the cuffs of the long gauge chiffon sleeves.
Marks and Inscriptions
  • 'WORTH PARIS' (Marked on the waist-band)
  • '63331' (Written on the back of the waist-band)
Credit line
Given by Lady Hoyer Millar
Historical context
Worn by Lady Hoyer Millar's mother just after the birth of her second child.



Couture number 63331
Summary
The elaborate and luxurious decoration on this gown characterises fashionable 'at home' wear of the late 19th century and early 20th. It was worn by the mother of Lady Hoyer Millar. In September 1900 The Queen, The Lady's Newspaper described the ideal tea-gown: 'It is quite a perfect gown showing soft falling kilted flounces at the hem, silk muslin or silk serving to enhance the beauty of incomparable lace'.



The waist stay (20 inch waist) has the 'Worth Paris' label and is inscribed with the number '63331'. Charles Frederick Worth (1825-1895) was a celebrated couture dressmaker in Paris. He was born in England at Bourne in Lincolnshire, and started working at the age of 12 in a draper’s shop in London. After working for various haberdashers and silk mercers, he left for Paris in 1845. In 1858 he went into partnership with a Swedish businessman, Otto Bobergh, and opened his own house. He was soon patronised by the Empress Eugénie (1826-1920), wife of the French Emperor, Napoleon III, and her influence was instrumental to his success. Obtaining made-to-measure clothes from his house was a symbol of social and financial success. They were appreciated for their beauty, elegance and fine workmanship.
Other Number
63331 - Couture number
Collection
Accession Number
T.48-1961

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record createdDecember 15, 1999
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