Jacket

This stylish ensemble was designed by Lucile (Lady Duff Gordon). Lucile was born Lucy Sutherland in London in 1863. She began dressmaking for friends and in 1891 opened her own fashion house. She married Sir Cosmo Duff Gordon in 1900. Lady Duff Gordon became a celebrated fashion designer, with branches in New York (1909), Chicago (1911) and Paris (1911). She was famous for her clever use of fabrics to create soft and harmonious effects, subtle colour schemes and romantic dresses, particularly suited to evening wear. Her clients included Irene Castle and Sarah Bernhardt as well as film stars and royalty. She sold her business in 1918.

This type of understated smart costume was popular for town wear during the autumn and winter months. This example was worn by Heather Firbank (1888-1954), daughter of the affluent Member of Parliament Sir Thomas Firbank and sister of the novelist Ronald Firbank. According to Ronald Firbank's biographer, Miriam J. Benkovitz, Heather was young, 'had beauty, and she adorned it with exquisite clothes of a heather colour to complement her name'. In 1921 her expensive clothes, bought from leading houses, were packed into trunks and put into storage, where they remained for the next 35 years. In 1960 the Museum acquired well over 100 items from her wardrobe. This collection forms an invaluable record of a stylish and wealthy woman's taste between about 1905 and 1920. Many items were shown in an exhibition at the Museum in 1960: 'Lady of Fashion: Heather Firbank and what she wore between 1908 and 1921'.