Trapeze coat of Chilingua, designed by Charles James, United States, 1947-1949

Trapeze coat of Chilingua (vicuña-blend) coat lined in brown satin with an elasticated inner belt in back. It is fitted with a slightly flared front and loose flowing back. There is no seam down the side. The collar is folded over, cut in one with the back, and instead of being stitched together at the front it is folded in and left without an edge seam.

Given by Stewart Klonis

Charles James made this coat for Mrs Edmond Bradfield. Notably, and unlike other versions of the design, it is without side seams, with the transition from fitted front to loose flowing back being continuous.

According to James at the time of donation (1978)

"One so-called, many years later, "Trapeze" top-coat with front fitted under bust with loose flared back, left free from the side back under arm. There is no seam down the sides, as variations of this structure had. The transition from a fitted and very slightly flared front to a full flowing back is accomplished by the slightly extended descending point of the bodice, which serves as a shaped suggest.

The collar is folded over, cut in one with the back, and instead of being stitched together at the front, is folded in and left without an edge seam.

The tension which holds the fitted front (underbodice) to the back is due to an elastic, stretched and encased in a satin, the colour of which contrasts with the mushroom coloured silk satin, crepe backed lining.

Fabric used in the coat was named CHILINGUA and is partly woven of vicuna yarn. It was not manufactured for long due to its cost. It is fragile.

Owner for whom this design was created: Mrs Edmond Bradfield, born in Nowata, Oklahoma, married to Mr Bradfield in Kansas City and now living in Armonk Village, New York. Mrs Bradfield was for many years an important member of the Port Authority of New York.

As the length of the coat, made in the late 40s, shows, Mrs Bradfield was not tall. She has exquisite taste, so more frequently found far out of New York (which is full of new wealth) and greatly inspired my work; almost as much as the late Millicent Rogers....."

T.266-1978