Wedding dress

Physical description

Wedding dress consisting of a cream silk satin bodice and draped and trained skirt decorated with embroidered net and artificial pearls, and a veil and a non-associated petticoat.
[Bodice] Fitted bodice of silk satin. Decorated with rows of cotton machine-embroidered net, artificial pearls made from cellulose nitrate, and metal thread tassels. The pointed, elbow-length bodice is boned and lined with cotton. It opens at the front and fastened with lacing. The very low neckline would have been filled in with a lace chemisette - dress currently has a modern chiffon replica chemisette. A thin silk ribbon runs around the outer edge of the lace along the neckline and would have tied at the front to keep the lace close to the body. The side seams of the bodice have been let out by about an inch. Underneath the arms inside are small silk covered pads to absorb perspiration. The point at the back of the bodice is heavily boned and designed to extend outwards resting at an angle of almost 90 degrees to the body, and held up by a bustle cage.
[Skirt] Skirt of silk satin with a train. Decorated with rows of cotton machine-embroidered net, artificial pearls made from cellulose nitrate, and metal thread tassels. The skirt is constructed from a silk satin base onto which several layers are draped. The straight base is covered with asymmetric rows of the same lace as found on the bodice, and is further decorated with ten tassels composed of metal thread and artificial pearls. Along the bottom of the skirt is an intricately pleated silk satin frill. Three panels of satin fabric of the same width make up the train. The outermost ones are draped across the front and tacked roughly into place and pulled back over the bustle. The outer edges are folded onto the surface of the train and are stitched down. Underneath the outer edge of the train is a brush frill of heavily starched and pleated plain weave cotton. Inside the skirt at the centre back is a square silk-covered cushion intended to rest on a bustle cage. Also inside the skirt, just below where the bustle cage would have been, are two sets of boned tapes which when tied secure the flat and slender front. The skirt fastens at the waist with four hooks and eyes.
[Veil] Cream net veil decorated with costume pearls.
[Under petticoat] Under petticoat of cream satin.

Place of Origin

London, England (made)

Date

1885 (made)

Artist/maker

Gladman & Womack (maker)

Materials and Techniques

Silk satin, cotton machine-embroidered net, artificial pearls and metal thread, boned, laced, and lined with cotton

Object history note

Registered File number 1990/1787.
Part of a wedding ensemble T.428 to I-1990.

Worn by May Primrose for her wedding on 10 June, 1885, to Major Herbert Littledale at SS Phillip and James, Cheltenham.

Gladman & Womack were Court Dress Makers with premises at 26 Portman Street, London.

Descriptive line

Wedding dress consisting of a silk satin bodice, a skirt, a veil and petticoat, made by Gladman & Womack, London, 1885

Exhibition History

Unveiled: 200 years of wedding glamour from the Victoria and Albert Museum, London. (Museum of New Zealand, Te Papa Tongarewa, Wellington 17/12/2011-22/04/2012)
The White Wedding Dress: 200 Years of Wedding Fashions (Bendigo Art Gallery 01/08/2011-06/11/2011)

Labels and date

Wedding dress
Gladman & Womack
London
1885

In the 1880s the cut and decoration of fashionable dress frequently drew on historical styles. The drapery of this wedding dress, worn by May Primrose for her marriage to Major Herbert Littledale in June 1885, has similarities with a late 17th-century informal gown called a mantua. When the bride died only a year after her marriage, her family carefully preserved her dress.

Silk satin, skirt decorated with embroidered net, artificial pearls and metal thread tassels
Given by the Hon. Mrs S.F. Tyser
V&A: T.428&A-1990 [2011]

Materials

Silk (textile); Cotton (textile); Metal thread; Net (textile); Pearls (imitation)

Techniques

Embroidered; Satin weave; Lace making; Lined; Machine made netting; Boned

Categories

Embroidery; Fashion; Marriage; Lace; Women's clothes

Production Type

Haute couture

Collection code

T&F