Not currently on display at the V&A

Leotard

1984 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This body-suit, designed by Viviene Westwood, was worn as gay club-wear in 1984. The fabric is a stretch nylon, which enables energetic dancing and movement. It is based upon the striped shirts worn by football players. The exposed jockstrap, which is part of the garment, suggests the protective underwear worn by sportsmen to hold their guards in place.

The surface decoration on the body-suit draws together logos and random images to suggest football advertising and sponsorship deals. At that time, the world of football was traditionally heterosexual and masculine. The subversive suggestion that football sponsors might sponsor an openly gay man is typical of Westwood's shock tactics.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Printed nylon and elastic
Brief description
Nylon leotard or stretch bodysuit with elasticated sides, designed by Vivienne Westwood, Great Britain, 1984
Physical description
Blue and white striped nylon leotard or stretch bodysuit with elasticated sides. Printed with football shirt and appliqué patches parodying football sponsorship deals. Built-in jockstrap.
Patches include 'OLYMPUS', 'PIRELLI', 'totip', 'olivetti', 'PIAGGIO' and 'FIAT'. The lower front half has 'ANY WAY GOOD WAY' in red squares.
Dimensions
  • Weight: 0.56kg
Marks and inscriptions
  • 'ANY WAY / GOOD / WAY' (Each letter in a red square on the front of the lower half.)
  • 'OLYMPUS' (Badge on the front)
  • 'PIRELLI' (Badge on the front)
  • 'totip' (Badge on the front)
  • 'olivetti' (Badge on the front)
  • 'PIAGGIO' (Badge on the front)
  • 'FIAT' (Badge on the front)
Credit line
Given by David Barber, in memory of Rupert Michael Dolan
Object history
Registered File number 1991/2009.
Worn by Rupert Michael Dolan.

Part of the 'Fashion Casual' displayed in the V&A's Street Style exhibition in 1994.
Subjects depicted
Summary
This body-suit, designed by Viviene Westwood, was worn as gay club-wear in 1984. The fabric is a stretch nylon, which enables energetic dancing and movement. It is based upon the striped shirts worn by football players. The exposed jockstrap, which is part of the garment, suggests the protective underwear worn by sportsmen to hold their guards in place.

The surface decoration on the body-suit draws together logos and random images to suggest football advertising and sponsorship deals. At that time, the world of football was traditionally heterosexual and masculine. The subversive suggestion that football sponsors might sponsor an openly gay man is typical of Westwood's shock tactics.
Bibliographic reference
De La Haye, Amy and Cathie Dingwall, eds. Surfers Soulies Skinheads & Skaters: Subcultural Style from the Forties to the Nineties. London: Victoria and Albert Publications, 1996.
Collection
Accession number
T.238-1991

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Record createdAugust 21, 2008
Record URL
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