Not currently on display at the V&A

Costume Design

1981 (painted)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

David Walker (1934-2008) studied design at the Central School of Art under Jeanetta Cochrane from whom he learned the importance of a thorough knowledge of historical dress. He began his career as a costume cutter at Glyndebourne, then worked principally as a costume designer, first for Joan Littlewood's Liverpool Theatre Workshop and Theatre Workshop, Stratford East, in 1960, later at the Royal Court Theatre, the Royal Shakespeare Company and the Royal Ballet. He became one of the world's leading designers, especially acclaimed for opera and ballet, creating productions for every major opera house and ballet company. Walker's skill lay in the interpreting of historic dress in theatrical terms, working in a highly imaginative way with fabrics and trimmings while remaining true to the period in which the production was set. His designs are works of art in their own right as well as guides to the costumiers.

Handel's 1742 opera Semele is based on Greek myth. Semele is the human lover of the god, Jupiter, who appears to her in mortal form. Juno, furious at her husband's infidelity, visits Semele is disguise and convinces the girl that she will gain immortality if she sees Jupiter as his true self, the mightly god of thunder. Reluctantly, Jupiter agrees to her request and Semele perishes in flames.

The Royal Opera House production in 1982 celebrated the 250th anniversary of the building of a theatre on the Covent Garden site. It was the first time that Semele had been staged at Covent Garden since 1744, when it was given 'in the Manner of an Oratorio' at the first Covent Garden Theatre. The 1982 production was directed by John Copley and conducted by Charles Mackerras with sets by Henry Bardon and costumes by David Walker. Valerie Masterson sang Semele and Kathleen Kuhlmann Juno. Walker's designs are based on the 18th-century theatre's idea of classical dress. His sumptuous design for Juno shows the goddess's imperious character as well as her costume. The purples, blues and greens are the colours of the peacock, traditional symbol of Juno.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Ink, pencil, wash and gouache on paper
Brief description
Costume design by David Walker for Juno in Handel's opera Semele, Royal Opera House, Covent Garden, 1982
Physical description
Trompe d'oeil design showing a full-length figure of a woman in an elaborate 18th-century 'classical' dress.in shades of green and purple. She wears a tiara with a billowing veil and holds a sceptre. To left two female figures, one full-length viewed from the back, the other a sketchy figure viewed in profile, the whole drawn as if on a sheet of paper with curling edges. At top left a baroque jewel partially hidden by the 'paper' of the costume design. To right a half-length female figure in a similar dress in gold and at top right a classical mask, both drawn as if on separate pieces of paper. At bottom right a shoe. Signed and dated.
Dimensions
  • Height: 54cm
  • Width: 75cm
Marks and inscriptions
David Walker 1981 (signature)
Gallery label
11 Costume design for Semele 1982 For the costume maker interpreting the costume design is an art in itself. David Walker’s design almost comes to life, communicating the shape, texture and colour needed for the character of Juno in Handel’s opera Semele. Opera by George Frideric Handel, 1742 Royal Opera House, London Paper, pen, pencil, wash and gouache Designed by David Walker (1934–2008) Museum no. S.2256-1994 (March 2009-September 2013)
Object history
Costume design by David Walker for Juno in Handel's opera, Semele, Royal Opera House, Covent Garden, 1982. The production was directed by John Copley and conducted by Charles Mackerras with sets by Henry Bardon and costumes by David Walker. Kathleen Kuhlmann sang Juno.
Subject depicted
Literary referenceSemele, by Handel (opera)
Summary
David Walker (1934-2008) studied design at the Central School of Art under Jeanetta Cochrane from whom he learned the importance of a thorough knowledge of historical dress. He began his career as a costume cutter at Glyndebourne, then worked principally as a costume designer, first for Joan Littlewood's Liverpool Theatre Workshop and Theatre Workshop, Stratford East, in 1960, later at the Royal Court Theatre, the Royal Shakespeare Company and the Royal Ballet. He became one of the world's leading designers, especially acclaimed for opera and ballet, creating productions for every major opera house and ballet company. Walker's skill lay in the interpreting of historic dress in theatrical terms, working in a highly imaginative way with fabrics and trimmings while remaining true to the period in which the production was set. His designs are works of art in their own right as well as guides to the costumiers.

Handel's 1742 opera Semele is based on Greek myth. Semele is the human lover of the god, Jupiter, who appears to her in mortal form. Juno, furious at her husband's infidelity, visits Semele is disguise and convinces the girl that she will gain immortality if she sees Jupiter as his true self, the mightly god of thunder. Reluctantly, Jupiter agrees to her request and Semele perishes in flames.

The Royal Opera House production in 1982 celebrated the 250th anniversary of the building of a theatre on the Covent Garden site. It was the first time that Semele had been staged at Covent Garden since 1744, when it was given 'in the Manner of an Oratorio' at the first Covent Garden Theatre. The 1982 production was directed by John Copley and conducted by Charles Mackerras with sets by Henry Bardon and costumes by David Walker. Valerie Masterson sang Semele and Kathleen Kuhlmann Juno. Walker's designs are based on the 18th-century theatre's idea of classical dress. His sumptuous design for Juno shows the goddess's imperious character as well as her costume. The purples, blues and greens are the colours of the peacock, traditional symbol of Juno.
Collection
Accession number
S.2256-1994

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Record createdAugust 15, 2008
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