Shawl thumbnail 1
Shawl thumbnail 2
+2
images
Not currently on display at the V&A

Shawl

1840-1870 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Shawl, plain weave silk embroidered with silk in straight stitches and couching; long twisted fringes along either end.

Pieced; dark green silk faded to a greenish-yellow. From the Museum Number end: a large zigzag in crimson red [A] of vertical zigzags and incomplete circles, broken at each point by spirals in white and yellow. This is followed by a line of large birds [peacocks?] in profile alternating with a stylized red plant motif in predominantly yellow and blue with green, red, white, orange and black highlights. Above this is a row of smaller bird forms, all facing left in predominantly blue, yellow, pale green, red and white. This is followed by a large central bush shaped motif in spirals of red, yellow with touches of red and light green[B]. Moving towards the centre, there is a small chevron roundel [C] containing botehs pointing clockwise, surrounded by small horned quadrupeds in various colours, and then a circle of tri-stemmed leaf motifs in 2 variations, each with a spiral root. This is then framed by 7 spiral 'rosettes' alternating with birds forms [in profile? Peacocks]. The same coloured silks are all used. In the centre, a large zigzag roundel encircling a star chevron and a band of small bird forms. This is surrounded by a repeat of [A] arranged in a circle in crimson with white spirals. Around this, a circle of alternately a peacock with fan tail in mainly crimson red, a peacock in profile either side of a large boteh motif in various colour combinations. Again, small occasional motifs of 7 spiral 'rosettes', plant sprays and 2-legged birds complete this pattern zone.
From this section, to another small chevron roundel like zone [C] but with some differences: theroundel botehs point anti-clockwise; the horned quadrupeds are missing; only one variation of tri-stemmed leaf motifs is present alternating with a pair of fish-like irds resting on perches. This is then framed by a large spiral star and alternately boteh motif. The same coloured silks are used.
The large central bush motif [B] then follows but here it has 5 small quadrupeds around it. The last pzttern zone consists of a row of stylized and isolated rosette or tri-blossomed plants, followed by a row of 5 tri-stemmed plants alternating with 3 peacocks in profile. It finishes with a zigzag band of couched black and white silk containing isolated white or orange spirals alternating with red or black infills. A small bird motif in a variety of colours is placed in each angle of the zigzag.
At both outer ends a narrow chevron band of red, black and white leads into the long twisted fringe.


Object details

Category
Object type
Materials and techniques
silk thread, weaving, embroidering
Brief description
A Zoroastrian woman's shawl or maknun, cotton with silk embroidery, probably Yazd, Iran, 1840-1870
Physical description
Shawl, plain weave silk embroidered with silk in straight stitches and couching; long twisted fringes along either end.

Pieced; dark green silk faded to a greenish-yellow. From the Museum Number end: a large zigzag in crimson red [A] of vertical zigzags and incomplete circles, broken at each point by spirals in white and yellow. This is followed by a line of large birds [peacocks?] in profile alternating with a stylized red plant motif in predominantly yellow and blue with green, red, white, orange and black highlights. Above this is a row of smaller bird forms, all facing left in predominantly blue, yellow, pale green, red and white. This is followed by a large central bush shaped motif in spirals of red, yellow with touches of red and light green[B]. Moving towards the centre, there is a small chevron roundel [C] containing botehs pointing clockwise, surrounded by small horned quadrupeds in various colours, and then a circle of tri-stemmed leaf motifs in 2 variations, each with a spiral root. This is then framed by 7 spiral 'rosettes' alternating with birds forms [in profile? Peacocks]. The same coloured silks are all used. In the centre, a large zigzag roundel encircling a star chevron and a band of small bird forms. This is surrounded by a repeat of [A] arranged in a circle in crimson with white spirals. Around this, a circle of alternately a peacock with fan tail in mainly crimson red, a peacock in profile either side of a large boteh motif in various colour combinations. Again, small occasional motifs of 7 spiral 'rosettes', plant sprays and 2-legged birds complete this pattern zone.
From this section, to another small chevron roundel like zone [C] but with some differences: theroundel botehs point anti-clockwise; the horned quadrupeds are missing; only one variation of tri-stemmed leaf motifs is present alternating with a pair of fish-like irds resting on perches. This is then framed by a large spiral star and alternately boteh motif. The same coloured silks are used.
The large central bush motif [B] then follows but here it has 5 small quadrupeds around it. The last pzttern zone consists of a row of stylized and isolated rosette or tri-blossomed plants, followed by a row of 5 tri-stemmed plants alternating with 3 peacocks in profile. It finishes with a zigzag band of couched black and white silk containing isolated white or orange spirals alternating with red or black infills. A small bird motif in a variety of colours is placed in each angle of the zigzag.
At both outer ends a narrow chevron band of red, black and white leads into the long twisted fringe.
Dimensions
  • Length: 272.5cm
  • Width: 88cm
Gallery label
Zoroastrian Woman’s Tunic, Trousers, Cap and Shawl Yazd, Iran About 1840–70 Like other religious minorities in Iran, Zoroastrians were required to dress to identify their religion. They wore brightly coloured clothing and did not usually veil their faces. This created an obvious contrast with the outdoor clothing worn by Muslim women. A Zoroastrian woman would typically wear a tunic (qamis), together with loose trousers (shalvar) gathered at the ankle. These trousers were made from textile remnants because there were restrictions on Zoroastrians buying full widths of fabric. Women covered their heads with a small fitted cap (lachak), over which they would wrap several shawls around their head and shoulders. Cotton plain weave with silk embroidery Museum nos. IS.9, 9A, 9B, 9C-1954 Jameel Gallery(31/08/2012)
Production
Zoroastrian
Collection
Accession number
IS.9B-1954

About this object record

Explore the Collections contains over a million catalogue records, and over half a million images. It is a working database that includes information compiled over the life of the museum. Some of our records may contain offensive and discriminatory language, or reflect outdated ideas, practice and analysis. We are committed to addressing these issues, and to review and update our records accordingly.

You can write to us to suggest improvements to the record.

Suggest feedback

Record createdJuly 16, 2008
Record URL
Download as: JSONIIIF Manifest