This splendid coat was made for a man at the Mughal court in the first half of the 17th century. It is embroidered in fine chain stitch on a white satin ground, with images of flowers, trees, peacocks, lions and deer. The area around the neck is left free of embroidery, as a separate collar or tippet, probably of fur, would have been attached. Chain-stitch embroidery of this type is associated with professional, male embroiderers of the Gujarati Mochi community, and they were employed to embroider fine hangings and garments for the Mughal court, as well as for export to the West.
Physical description
Hunting coat of embroidered satin with silk in fine chain stitch in blue, yellow, green, gold and brown silk. All-over pattern of hillocks, flowering trees and plants, peacocks, storks, ducks, butterflies, insects and animals including tigers, deer and rabbits.
Place of Origin
India (made)
Date
ca. 1620-1630 (made)
Artist/maker
Unknown
Materials and Techniques
Embroidered satin with silk
Dimensions
Height: 97 cm, Height: 39.5 in, Width: 36 in
Object history note
Stitching of the kind used here was particularly associated with Gujarati craftsmen. The style of the coat and the cool palette of the colours of the design suggest Iranian influence.
Descriptive line
Man's hunting coat of embroidered satin with silk, India, ca. 1620-1630
Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)
Swallow, Deborah and John Guy eds. Arts of India: 1550-1900. text by Rosemary Crill, John Guy, Veronica Murphy, Susan Stronge and Deborah Swallow. London : V&A Publications, 1990. 240 p., ill. ISBN 1851770224, p.85, no.61.
Murphy Veronica, in The Indian Heritage. Court Life and Arts under Mughal Rule, V&A, 1982, cat. 252, p. 94-5. ISBN 0906969263.
p. 58, pl. 36.
Stronge, S. Made for Mughal Emperors. Royal Treasures from Hindustan. London and New York, 2010
p.40, pl. 22.
Indian embroidery / Rosemary Crill ; photography by Richard Davis. London: V&A Publications, 1999 Number: 185177310X, 1851772944 (pbk.)
Crill, Rosemary, Arts of Asia, vol. 45, no. 5, September - October 2015, "The Fabric of India" Exhibition, p.70, pl. 8.
p. 214, cat. no. 1017, pl. 66
The art of India and Pakistan, a commemorative catalogue of the exhibition held at the Royal Academy of Arts, London, 1947-8. Edited by Sir Leigh Ashton. London: Faber and Faber, [1950]
Labels and date
RIDING COAT
This 17th-century man's coat is one of the finest surviving examples of Mughal dress. It was stitched by professional male embroiderers from Gujarat, using a needle and hook (ari). The cosmopolitan court drew its influences from across Europe and Asia. The landscape derives from Chinese imports. The life-like daffodils and poppies are taken from European prints brought to the Mughal court by missionaries and traders.
Silk (satin weave) embroidered with silk
Probably Gujarat, 1620-5
V&A: IS.18-1947 [03/10/2015-10/01/2016]
Subjects depicted
Animals
Categories
Images Online; Textiles; Clothing; Embroidery
Collection
South & South East Asia Collection
