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Gown

1st quarter 18th century (made)
Artist/Maker
Unknown
Place of origin
Coromandel Coast (made)

Chintz dresses of this cut were worn in Hindeloopen in northern Holland, although they were usually made of more colourful chintz fabric. This monochrome type was probably intended as mourning wear. The design is taken from a French woven silk pattern of the early 18th century.


Object details

Categories
Textiles
Clothing
Fashion
SCRAN
Object type
Gown
Materials and techniques
Painted and dyed cotton chintz, lined with linen
Brief description
Gown (wentke) of painted and dyed cotton chintz, North Coromandel Coast, first quarter of 18th century
Physical description
Gown (wentke) of painted and dyed cotton chintz. With a pattern of large palmette flanked by foliate scrolls. Flowers fill the intervening spaces. Both flowers and leaves are patterned with floral meanders and zig zag motives. Hindelopen cut and the seams are accented by a line of backstitching in black floss silk. Lined with white linen. The neck, fronts and wrists are edged with black and white weft patterned tape.
Dimensions
  • Height: 142cm
  • Repeat height: 52.5cm
  • Repeat width: 47cm
  • Repeat height: 20.625in
  • Repeat width: 18.5in
  • Length: 57.5in
  • Width: 80in
Credit line
Given by G. P. Baker
Object history
Made under Dutch patronage, the 'wentke' survived into the 20th century as regional dress in Friesland. The sober colouring may imply mourning wear.
Subjects depicted
Floral Pattern
Fleurs-De-Lis
Summary
Chintz dresses of this cut were worn in Hindeloopen in northern Holland, although they were usually made of more colourful chintz fabric. This monochrome type was probably intended as mourning wear. The design is taken from a French woven silk pattern of the early 18th century.
Bibliographic references
  • Swallow, Deborah and John Guy eds. Arts of India: 1550-1900. text by Rosemary Crill, John Guy, Veronica Murphy, Susan Stronge and Deborah Swallow. London : V&A Publications, 1990. 240 p., ill. ISBN 1851770224, p.169, pl.146.
  • Crill, Rosemary, Chintz: Indian Textiles for the West, London, 2008. Plate 55, p. 103
  • Irwin, John and Katherine Brett, Origins of Chintz, London, 1970. With a catalogue of Indo-European cotton-paintings in the Victoria & Albert Museum, London, and the Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto. ISBN 112900534. p. 113, cat. no. 122, pl. 109
Collection
South & South East Asia Collection
Accession number
IS.18-1950

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Record createdDecember 15, 1999
Record URL
https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O16048/gown-unknown/
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