Earring thumbnail 1
Not currently on display at the V&A

Earring

ca.1870 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

These earrings and matching pendant (Loan.Gilbert.131-2008) are not based on a surviving ancient model, but are a freer adaptation of classical jewellery found by archaeologists. Quirky novelties were fashionable in jewellery at the time. The designer has miniaturised the ewer form and decorated it with brightly coloured mosaic.

The term 'micromosaic' is used to describe mosaics made of the smallest glass pieces. Some micromosaics contain more than 5000 pieces per square inch. The earliest attempts at micromosaic revealed visible joins between the pieces (known as tesserae) and a lack of perspective. Later artists such as Antonio Aguatti made huge advances in micromosaic technique, resulting in renderings that were truer to life. Glass micromosaic technique developed in the 18th century, in the Vatican Mosaic Workshop in Rome, where they still undertake restoration work today.

Sir Arthur Gilbert and his wife Rosalinde formed one of the world's great decorative art collections, including silver, mosaics, enamelled portrait miniatures and gold boxes. Arthur Gilbert donated his extraordinary collection to Britain in 1996.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 2 parts.

  • Earring
  • Earring
Materials and techniques
Chased gold, micromosaic and pearls
Brief description
Earrings in shape of ewers. Micromosaic, gold and pearls, Rome, ca. 1870.
Physical description
A pair of earrings in the shape of an urn with a scroll handle decorated with rosettes. The body of the urn is decorated with a band of heart-shaped cannetille below a band of pearls, and the entire body is covered with colourful glass mosaic in floral and leaf motifs. From the lip of the ewers spills out three gold chains, each tipped by a pearl.
Dimensions
  • Height: 4.8cm
  • Width: 1.0cm
  • Depth: 1.2cm
Updated with measurements taken on 23/09/2008, which apply to each earring.
Gallery label
  • 8. Pendant and earrings in the shape of ewers About 1870 This pendant and earrings are not based on an exact ancient model, but are a freer interpretation of classical jewellery and ceramics found by archaeologists. The designer has miniaturised the ewer form and decorated it with brightly coloured mosaic works. Rome, Italy Gold, glass micromosaic and pearls Museum nos. Loan:Gilbert.131:1; 132:1, 2-2008(16/11/2016)
  • Pendant and earrings in the shape of ewers About 1870 This pendant and earrings are not based on a surviving ancient model, but are a freer adaptation of classical jewellery found by archaeologists. Quirky novelties were fashionable in jewellery at the time. The designer has miniaturised the ewer form and decorated it with brightly coloured mosaic. Rome, Italy Gold, glass micromosaic and pearls Museum nos. Loan:Gilbert.131; 132:1, 2-2008(2009)
Credit line
The Rosalinde and Arthur Gilbert Collection on loan to the Victoria and Albert Museum, London
Object history
Provenance
Acquired by Arthur Gilbert from S.J. Phillips Ltd, London, 1976

Historical significance: The pieces are decorated using ancient techniques, cannetille and glass mosaics. Cannetille is a decoration, sometimes in gold, on decorative objects consisting of wire twisted to form filigree-like scrolls and rosettes.
Historical context
This set is in an archaeological style of jewellery introduced by the Roman workshop Castellani in the nineteenth century.
Subject depicted
Summary
These earrings and matching pendant (Loan.Gilbert.131-2008) are not based on a surviving ancient model, but are a freer adaptation of classical jewellery found by archaeologists. Quirky novelties were fashionable in jewellery at the time. The designer has miniaturised the ewer form and decorated it with brightly coloured mosaic.

The term 'micromosaic' is used to describe mosaics made of the smallest glass pieces. Some micromosaics contain more than 5000 pieces per square inch. The earliest attempts at micromosaic revealed visible joins between the pieces (known as tesserae) and a lack of perspective. Later artists such as Antonio Aguatti made huge advances in micromosaic technique, resulting in renderings that were truer to life. Glass micromosaic technique developed in the 18th century, in the Vatican Mosaic Workshop in Rome, where they still undertake restoration work today.

Sir Arthur Gilbert and his wife Rosalinde formed one of the world's great decorative art collections, including silver, mosaics, enamelled portrait miniatures and gold boxes. Arthur Gilbert donated his extraordinary collection to Britain in 1996.
Associated object
Bibliographic references
  • Gabriel, Jeanette Hanisee with contributions by Anna Maria Massinelli and essays by Judy Rudoe and Massimo Alfieri. Micromosaics: The Gilbert Collection. London: Philip Wilson Publishers Ltd. in association with The Gilbert Collection, 2000. 310 p., ill. Cat. no. 187, p. 251. ISBN 0856675113.
  • Schroder, Timothy, ed. The Gilbert Collection at the V&A. London (V&A Publishing) 2009, p. 78, plate 60. ISBN9781851775934
Other numbers
  • MM249 - Arthur Gilbert Number
  • MM 297 - Arthur Gilbert Number
Collection
Accession number
LOAN:GILBERT.132:1,2-2008

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Record createdJune 26, 2008
Record URL
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