Evening dress
- Place of origin:
- Date:
- Artist/Maker:
- Materials and Techniques:
- Credit Line:
Worn and given by HRH Princess Margaret
- Museum number:
- Gallery location:
- Image under copyright
The overlapping, curved pleats formed into scalloped panels on this bodice front suggest a stylised rendition of receding waves, an impression further enhanced by the deep sea-blue of the fine, slightly stiff, silk fabric. The controlled movement on the curved, fitted bodice is achieved by the dextrous pleating of fabric cut on the bias, fronted with no visible seams.
The scalloped pleating encloses the front torso up to the low, strapless décolletage, and continues across the back in straight, horizontal lines. The bodice fits the figure tightly to the hips and from there the skirt falls in long, soft pleats.
Physical description
The overlapping, curved pleats formed into scalloped panels on this bodice front suggest a stylised rendition of receding waves, an impression further enhanced by the deep sea-blue of the fine, slightly stiff, silk fabric. Matching jacket in blue silk organza with white pique collar and cuffs on the elbow length sleeves, buttoning up the front, with blue velvet ribbon around the waist
Place of Origin
Paris
Date
1951 (made)
Artist/maker
Dessès, Jean
Materials and Techniques
Silk
Marks and inscriptions
"Jean Desses 17 Avenue Matignon Paris" Label
Dimensions
Circumference: 54 cm (Waist)
Diameter: 85 cm (Skirt hem)
Length: 84 cm (Skirt)
Object history note
Worn by HRH Princess Margaret.
Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)
Kensington Palace dress collection
A photograph of Princess Margaret wearing the ensemble to the races
Stanfill, S., 'Jean Dessès' in Wilcox, C., ed., The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-57 (V&A Publications, 2007), p.84-5 and pl.3.17
Further evidence of Dessès' precise pleating can be seen in a 1951 cocktail dress. The bodice's composition of curving pleats with a pattern suggestive of waves fits closely to the body; the dress then tapers to a narrow waist, and swells into a full skirt of soft pleats. Referencing the colouring of a sailor's uniform, Dessès chose royal blue for the dress and white cotton piqué to trim the collars and cuffs of the silk chiffon over-jacket (not shown).
Labels and date
[Cocktail Dress case]
Afternoon dress (robe après-midi habillée)
Jean Dessès (1904-70)
Paris
About 1951
The London Illustrated magazine said that after her eighteenth birthday Princess Margaret began to appear in public as a 'grown up personality'. 'She experimented boldly with her clothes and hairstyles, and adopted the then very New Look.' The bodice of this dress is achieved by the dextrous pleating of fabric cut on the bias.
Silk
Given by Princess Margaret
V&A: T.237-1986
Materials
Silk
Techniques
Pleating
Categories
Fashion; Clothing; Royalty
Production Type and Product Note
Haute couture
Collection code
T&D
