The overlapping, curved pleats formed into scalloped panels on this bodice front suggest a stylised rendition of receding waves, an impression further enhanced by the deep sea-blue of the fine, slightly stiff, silk fabric. The controlled movement on the curved, fitted bodice is achieved by the dextrous pleating of fabric cut on the bias, fronted with no visible seams.
The scalloped pleating encloses the front torso up to the low, strapless décolletage, and continues across the back in straight, horizontal lines. The bodice fits the figure tightly to the hips and from there the skirt falls in long, soft pleats.
Physical description
Cocktail dress of blue silk and jacket of blue silk organza.
[Dress] Dress with overlapping, curved pleats formed into scalloped panels on the bodice front, suggesting a stylised rendition of receding waves, an impression further enhanced by the deep sea-blue of the fine, slightly stiff, silk fabric.
[Jacket] Matching jacket in blue silk organza with white pique collar and cuffs on the elbow length sleeves, and buttoning up the front. Blue velvet ribbon around the waist.
Place of Origin
Paris, France (made)
Date
1951 (made)
Artist/maker
Jean Dessès, born 1904 - died 1970 (designer)
Materials and Techniques
Silk, silk organza and velvet ribbon, pleated
Marks and inscriptions
'Jean Desses 17 Avenue Matignon Paris'
Dimensions
[Dress] Circumference: 54 cm waist, Diameter: 85 cm skirt hem, Length: 84 cm skirt
Object history note
Registered File number 1985/2045.
Worn by HRH Princess Margaret.
Descriptive line
Cocktail dress of silk and jacket of silk organza, designed by Jean Dessès, Paris, 1951.
Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)
Wilcox, C. & Mendes, V. Modern Fashion in Detail. London: V&A Publications, 1991, p. 36, ISBN 1 85177 032 1
Kensington Palace dress collection
A photograph of Princess Margaret wearing the ensemble to the races
Stanfill, S. 'Jean Dessès' in Wilcox, C., ed., The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-1957. London: V&A Publications, 2007. p. 84-5 and pl. 3.17
Further evidence of Dessès' precise pleating can be seen in a 1951 cocktail dress. The bodice's composition of curving pleats with a pattern suggestive of waves fits closely to the body; the dress then tapers to a narrow waist, and swells into a full skirt of soft pleats. Referencing the colouring of a sailor's uniform, Dessès chose royal blue for the dress and white cotton piqué to trim the collars and cuffs of the silk chiffon over-jacket (not shown).
Exhibition History
The Golden Age of Couture. Paris and London 1947 - 1957 (Victoria and Albert Museum 22/09/2007-06/01/2008)
Labels and date
[Cocktail Dress case]
Afternoon dress (robe après-midi habillée)
Jean Dessès (1904-70)
Paris
About 1951
The London Illustrated magazine said that after her eighteenth birthday Princess Margaret began to appear in public as a 'grown up personality'. 'She experimented boldly with her clothes and hairstyles, and adopted the then very New Look.' The bodice of this dress is achieved by the dextrous pleating of fabric cut on the bias.
Silk
Given by Princess Margaret
V&A: T.237-1986 [22/09/2007-06/01/2008]
Materials
Silk (textile); Organza
Techniques
Velvet weave; Pleating
Categories
Royalty; Fashion; Evening wear; Women's clothes
Production Type
Haute couture
Collection code
T&F
