This picture shows a detail of a Christian Dior (1905-57) cocktail dress in raspberry coloured satin organza. The two bows appear to hold the soft gathers of the material together as it flows from the deep, falling collar into the closely fitting bodice.
Dior wrote that ‘many a dress of mine is born of the fabric alone’, and in this dress he manipulates the luxurious, crisp satin organza to great effect. The bodice is complemented by a simple skirt. Full and short, its bouffant shape is pleated into a tight waist and supported by four layers of net petticoat beneath, the innermost reinforced by horsehair stiffening.
Physical description
Cocktail dress of satin organza, net and horsehair stiffening. With two softly tailored bows. Precisely placed at either side of the bodice, the bows draw attention to the flattering cross-over decolletage.
Place of Origin
London, England (made)
Date
1957 (made)
Artist/maker
Bohan, Marc, born 1926 (designer)
Christian Dior London Ltd (maker)
Materials and Techniques
Satin organza, net and horsehair stiffening
Marks and inscriptions
'13445'
'Christian Dior UK Regd Made in England by Christian Dior Ltd London'
Dimensions
Circumference: 68 cm bust, Circumference: 59 cm waist
Object history note
Dior established his London house in 1954. Along with various other international 'branches' it provided high-end ready-to-wear.
Historical context note
This dress is very typical of the Dior silhouette from 1957. The bodice is tight and moulded, flaring from the waist to a rounded bell-skirt.
Descriptive line
Cocktail dress of deep pink organza, Dior of London, 1957
Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)
Claire Wilcox and Valerie Mendes. Modern Fashion in Detail. London: V&A Publications, 1991, p.94.
Wilcox, C., 'Dior's Golden Age' in Wilcox, C., ed., The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-57 (V&A Publications, London), pl.2.14
Image: detail
This dress was the basis for the illustration created by fashion illustrator David Downton, for the lead image of The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-57 exhibition, V&A 2007
Exhibition History
The Golden Age of Couture. Paris and London 1947 - 1957 (Victoria and Albert Museum 22/09/2007-06/01/2008)
Labels and date
Cocktail dress (robe de cocktail)
Christian Dior (1905-57)
London
1957
Dior always included a red dress in his collections. He wrote that red 'is the colour of life. I love red and I think it suits almost every complexion. Bright reds - scarlet, pillar-box red, crimson, cherry are very gay and youthful.' He also described bows as the 'natural ornament' of a dress.
Satin organza
Given by Mrs William Mann
V&A: T.235-1985
[displayed with]
Shoes
Christian Dior
Late 1950s
Satin
Given by Mrs Gloria Guinness
V&A: T.153&A-1974 [22/09/2007-06/01/2008]
Production Note
Attribution note: High-end ready-to-wear
Materials
Net (textile); Organza; Horsehair
Techniques
Satin weave
Categories
Fashion; Evening wear; Women's clothes
Production Type
Ready to wear
Collection code
T&D
