Pierre Balmain maintained that 'the basic job of a couturier . . . is to dress women for everyday living' (My Years and Seasons, 1964). For his clientele, normal life often involved numerous grand evening occasions, and Balmain is perhaps best known for the lavish ball-gowns he created for these events. The vertically looped ribbon decoration and the full, long skirt of this dress were inspired by 18th- and 19th-century garments.
This dress was worn by Lady Elizabeth von Hofmannsthal and forms part of the Cecil Beaton Collection. This Collection was brought together by the society photographer Sir Cecil Beaton (1904-1980). With great energy and determination Beaton contacted the well-dressed elite of Europe and North America to help create this lasting monument to the art of dress. The Collection was exhibited in 1971, accompanied by a catalogue that detailed its enormous range.
Physical description
Full length evening dress of yellow satin duchesse. It has a tightly fitted, strapless bodice and a bouffant skirt. The bodice has a boned corset foundation, and the skirt has a triangular central panel trimmed and edged with looped bands and a bow. The underskirts are of many tiered stiffened net. The satin is underlined throughout in silk crepeline and the dress fastens at the left side with a zip.
Place of Origin
Paris, France (made)
Date
1956 (made)
Artist/maker
Pierre Balmain, born 1914 - died 1982 (designer)
Materials and Techniques
Satin duchesse, decorated with ribbon, mounted on a boned foundation, with many-tiered, stiffened net and underlined with silk crepeline
Dimensions
Circumference: 82 cm Bust, Circumference: 60 cm Waist, Circumference: 330 cm Hem, Weight: 2.34 kg
Object history note
This dress was worn by Lady Elizabeth von Hofmannsthal and forms part of the Cecil Beaton Collection.With great energy and determination the late Sir Cecil Beaton contacted the well-dressed elite of Europe and America to bring this lasting monument to the art of dress. The collection was exhibited in 1971, accompanied by a catalogue which detailed its enormous range (catalogue number 35, page 19).
Descriptive line
Satin evening dress, designed by Pierre Balmain, Paris, 1956.
Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)
Vickers, H., 'Cecil Beaton' in Wilcox, C., ed., The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-57 (V&A Publications, London), p.167
Lady Elizabeth von Hofmannsthal (1916-80) was one of the Paget sisters, a Maid of Honour at the 1937 Coronation, and like her aunt, Lady Diana Cooper, one of the most beautiful women in England in her day. She married Raimund von Hofmannsthal (son of Hugo von Hofmannsthal), with whom many English girls were in love. She gave her yellow Balmain evening dress of 1956 (T.49-1974), and a black Balmain cocktail dress of 1957 (T.50-1974). After her death her son, Octavian, donated a beautiful Cartier make-up case monogrammed with her initials (T.62-2004). It still contains blusher.
Elizabeth von Hofmannsthal, photographed by Cecil Beaton for British Vogue, September 1948 p.72
Lady Elizabeth von Hofmannsthal is well known for her beauty. She loves music, spends a great deal of her time at concerts and theatres. Basis of her smartness is simplicity. Here she wears a "black tulip" crêpe dress by Bianca Mosca.
Exhibition History
The Golden Age of Couture. Paris and London 1947 - 1957 (Victoria and Albert Museum 22/09/2007-06/01/2008)
Fashion: an anthology by Cecil Beaton (Victoria and Albert Museum 01/01/1972-31/12/1972)
Labels and date
Evening dress (robe du soir)
Pierre Balmain (1914-82)
Paris
1956
'Technical perfection', said Balmain, 'is not enough. To be a couturier means offering women a certain standard of excellence. The most difficult thing is not to be extravagant, but to know when to stop.' The looped ribbon decoration and the crinoline skirt of this dress were inspired by 18th-century fashion.
Duchesse satin
Given by Lady Elizabeth von Hofmannsthal
V&A: T.49-1974 [22/09/2007-06/01/2008]
Associated names
Cecil Beaton
Subjects depicted
Bow (ribbon)
Categories
Fashion; Evening wear; Women's clothes
Production Type
Haute couture
Collection code
T&F
