Throughout the 1950s Cristóbal Balenciaga (1895-1972) designed a series of extravagant and inventive evening dresses (mainly in fine silk taffeta) that were based on immense drapes and flounces. In this dress he confines the bouffant drapes to the back, while in contrast the front has a simple appearance with a V-neck and a straight, very narrow skirt, slit at the centre front hem to allow movement.
Physical description
Evening dress made from cerise silk taffeta. The sleeveless bodice has a plunging 'V' neckline and the construction of the skirt back is highly involved. It consists of a swathed and drawn back skirt with a double tier of enormous triangular flounces (formed by looping and gathering) topped by a large bow. The flounces are wired to keep their bouffant shape. The dress is mounted on a boned and padded foundation which fastens at the centre back with a metal zip. The dress fastens over this with a row of covered buttons. Lined with chiffon. The dress is machine sewn and hand finished.
Place of Origin
Paris, France (made)
Date
1953-1954 (made)
Artist/maker
Cristóbal Balenciaga, born 1895 - died 1972 (designer)
Materials and Techniques
Silk taffeta, boned and padded, metal, machine-sewn and hand-finished, wire, lined with chiffon
Marks and inscriptions
Balenciaga, 10 Avenue George V, Paris
'49933'
Dimensions
Circumference: 83 cm bust, Circumference: 58 cm waist, Circumference: 220 cm hem
Descriptive line
Evening dress of silk taffeta, designed by Cristóbal Balenciaga, Paris, 1953-1954
Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)
Demornex, J., and Jouve, M., Balenciaga (New York, 1989), unpaginated.
Images showing similar dresses.
Left page: red dress. Right page: blue dress.
Caption: "On the left, a detail of a 'balloon' dress in red taffeta, formerly owned by Mrs Lopez Wilshaw, 1954. U.F.A.C. Paris. On the right, a 'balloon' dress in pale blue taffeta; detail of the back. Formerly owned by the Duchesse de Montesquiou-Fezensac, 1953-4. The Balenciaga Archives.
Exhibition History
The Golden Age of Couture. Paris and London 1947 - 1957 (Victoria and Albert Museum 22/09/2007-06/01/2008)
Labels and date
Evening dress (robe grand soir)
Cristóbal Balenciaga (1895-1972)
Paris
About 1955
Balenciaga occasionally produced gowns that shared Dior's nostalgia for the grandeur of historical dress. Generally, however, his designs became increasingly austere during the 1950s.
Silk taffeta
Given by Miss Caroline Coombe
V&A: T.427-1967 [22/09/2007-06/01/2008]
Categories
Textiles; Fashion; Evening wear; Women's clothes
Production Type
Haute couture
Collection code
T&F
