This dress has many features that became current in the 1950s, such as the sheath skirt, the pointed fly-away cuffs and sharp yellow colour set against predominantly red accessories. The stiff cotton is ideal to hold the angular details and keep the line of the straight skirt. Until the mid 1950s the alternative to this shape was the silhouette with a similar neat corsage and small waist, but with a full, bouffant skirt.
This dress was worn by Lady Alexandra Dacre of Glanton. It forms part of the Cecil Beaton Collection. This Collection was brought together by the society photographer Sir Cecil Beaton (1904-1980). With great energy and determination Beaton contacted the well-dressed elite of Europe and North America to help create this lasting monument to the art of dress. The Collection was exhibited in 1971, accompanied by a catalogue that detailed its enormous range.
Physical description
The top and sleeves are cut in one piece, with back and front joined by an outside shoulder and sleeve seam; with an underarm gusset. It has a v-shaped neck, with an extra layer of material, creating a halter-neck effect, over the bodice, attached to a stand-up collar at back of neck. It has a centre front zipper. The skirt is slim and in cross-over style, hooked along front of dress and gathered and stitched, fastening at left back with hooks and 4 buttons.
2 shoulder pads in dress. It has elbow-length sleeves and turned back pointed cuffs.
T.175A-1974: Sash; printed cotton. Small folk motifs (mock Peruvian?) on a red ground. The sash hooks round the waist and buttons onto the dress at the back.
T.175B-1974: Hat; sparterie based and covered in matching sash material. Deep rounded crown with a brim which is narrow at the back, widens out at the sides and front, which is turned up. It is pleated in a curve sweeping from crown to right side and has a narrow self-covered ribbon, tying in a bow at the back. Inside of crown lined in pink felt.
T.175c&D-1974: Hatpins; covered at tip with matching fabric, folded and pleated.
Place of Origin
Paris, France (made)
Date
1949 (made)
Artist/maker
Jacques Fath, born 1912 - died 1954 (designer)
Materials and Techniques
Printed plain weave cotton, with padded shoulders
Marks and inscriptions
Jacques Fath, Paris
Object history note
Lady Trevor-Roper favoured designs by Jacques Fath for her wardrobe, and contributed the vast proportion of the V&A's Fath collection.
Historical context note
This dress whas many features which became current in the 1950s, such as the sheath skirt, the pointed fly-away cuffs and the sharp yellow colour set against predominantly red accessories. The stiff cotton is ideal to hold the angular details and keep the line of the straight skirt. Until the mid-1950s the alternative to this shape was the silhouette with a similar neat corsage and small waist but with a full bouffant skirt.
Descriptive line
Summer day dress of yellow linen, with contrasting red patterned sash and hat
Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)
Natalie Rothstein, ed., 'Four Hundred Years of Fashion', (V&A: V&A Publications, 1984), p.93. Cat entry 170.
The dress has padded, rounded shoulders and a wrap-around slim skirt which buttons at the back on the left. The stiffened sash also fastens on these buttons. The bodice has a complex double construction with thte outer fronts forming a stand-away V-shaped neckline. This dress whas many features which became current in the 1950s, such as the sheath skirt, the pointed fly-away cuffs and the sharp yellow colour set against predominantly red accessories. The stiff cotton is ideal to hold the angular details and keep the line of the straight skirt. Until the mid-1950s the alternative to this shape was the silhouette with a similar neat corsage and small waist but with a full bouffant skirt.
Worn and given by Lady Alexandra Dacre of Glanton
The Cecil Beaton Collection
Vogue (French), July/August 1949, p.51.
Exhibition History
Hats An Anthology by Stephen Jones (Victoria and Albert Museum 24/02/2009-31/05/2009)
Associated names
Cecil Beaton
Production Note
Summer 1949
Categories
Clothing; Fashion
Production Type
Haute couture
Collection code
T&F
