Not currently on display at the V&A

Evening Dress

1916-1918 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This evening dress demonstrates trends that became popular in France and elsewhere in the early twentieth century largely as a result of Paul Poiret's brilliantly-coloured, often Eastern-inspired clothes and the vivid designs for the Ballets Russes (the Russian ballet company founded in 1909 by Serge Diaghilev) by the painter and stage designer Leon Bakst (1866-1924). The garment is reminiscent of fashion illustrations by artists such as Georges Lepape and Charles Martin for the Gazette du Bon Ton.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Brocaded taffeta, net, lined with silk, trimmed with gilt lace
Brief description
Brocaded taffeta evening dress with net and lined with silk, probably made in France, 1916-1918
Physical description
Evening dress of black brocaded taffeta. The skirt is seamed at the centre front and pleated into a high waist to form exaggerated drapes over the hips. High waist with a wide draped cummerbund edged at the top with a strip of black and gold lace. The skirt overlaps to fasten at the centre back. The hobble skirt narrows to the hem and the wearers stride is further restricted by an elastic strap at the ankles. The bodice is of three layers of net, black over cream, cut in one with a 'V' neck and short sleeves trimmed with acorn tassels of black and gold. The bodice is lined with white silk and the shirt with black silk. The taffeta is woven with small designs of circular floral motif in mauve and jade green.
Dimensions
  • Waist circumference: 26in (Note: waist)
  • Shoulder to hem length: 48in (Note: shoulder to hem)
  • Bust circumference: 34in (Note: bust)
Credit line
Given by B. W. Owram
Object history
The wide loosely ruched cummerbund is a feature retained from the 1910s.
Summary
This evening dress demonstrates trends that became popular in France and elsewhere in the early twentieth century largely as a result of Paul Poiret's brilliantly-coloured, often Eastern-inspired clothes and the vivid designs for the Ballets Russes (the Russian ballet company founded in 1909 by Serge Diaghilev) by the painter and stage designer Leon Bakst (1866-1924). The garment is reminiscent of fashion illustrations by artists such as Georges Lepape and Charles Martin for the Gazette du Bon Ton.
Collection
Accession number
T.165-1960

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Record createdDecember 15, 1999
Record URL
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